26 January 2009

Reflections of Michelle

Before coming to South Africa, I was introduced to the phrase “Ubuntu,” which translates to “I am because we are.” The first time I heard this, I was so moved and inspired and decided to try to, as much as possible, come into this experience with that same philosophy. I was unsure as to how difficult keeping that mindset would be, given that I was about to be not only an outsider in the country, but a privileged outsider. However, as soon as I stepped outside the plane and into the Cape Town airport, I realized that “Ubuntu” is not only a philosophy or mindset, but a way of life and something which lives in the air here. It is an energy, an overall feeling, that I will never be able to accurately put to words.

My first morning here, I woke up around six a.m. and decided to go outside on our rooftop patio, drink my coffee, and soak up the fact that I was actually in South Africa. I stepped outside and was blown away. The view from our house, and actually from everywhere in Cape Town, is something that will forever be engrained in my mind and heart. When I saw the mountains, the sun, the city, and took a breath in, I felt this overwhelming feeling wash over me. But, the overwhelming feeling was one of happiness and gratitude, because I knew I was seeing something that so few people would ever see. I knew then that I needed to appreciate every moment I had here, and I was more present than I had ever been.

Our next week was filled with so many activities, and I rarely had time to reflect on how I felt or what I was thinking. One of the activities we had planned was a visit to the Sivuyele Baptist Church in Guguletu, where we would be able to attend a Sunday service. At first, I had mixed feelings about this because I personally do not practice any sort of organized religion, and although I consider myself a spiritual person, I have always had trouble understanding how and why people subscribed to a certain set of religious beliefs. I can count on one hand the number of times I have attended church, and was consequently both excited and nervous to attend a religious service in South Africa.

Sivuyele Baptist Church is located in the township of Guguletu. Although in comparison to other townships Guguletu is smaller in size and not as impoverished, it is still nothing like anything I have ever seen in the United States. There are areas in Connecticut and New York City that are very poor, but entering a township, for me, is an entirely different experience. People live in one room huts, so to speak, and many of them have dirt floors and no running water. The areas are very crowded, and there are often animals such as dogs, goats, cows, and even horses roaming.

The church was small in size, and we all entered not knowing what to expect. We were told that people normally dress up for the service, and that most women wear dresses and skirts. We were also told that most of the service would be in Xhosa, but that we would be welcomed and that the church was excited to have us. As we all walked in nervously, we realized how much we stood out, as we were the only “white” people in the congregation.

But, I personally was put to ease immediately as I heard them start singing. We arrived a few minutes after the service began, and filled in as the attendants of the church were singing. Everyone in the church would sing, and their voices gave me chills. I did not know what they were saying, but the emotions were clear and went through me. I wanted so badly to sing with them, to be a part of whatever it was they were saying. I could not help but sway to the music, look around at all the people, and smile.

When the pastor began to speak, I was blown away by his intensity. His voice filled the room, and he spoke so loudly, with such conviction, that he gasped for breaths in between each sentence. I was at first struck by what seemed like yelling, but soon closed my eyes and felt a sense of both peace and inspiration; I tried to imagine what he might be saying, and could only guess that it was of profound meaning to all those in the church. He was often met with an “Amen” or “Oh Jesus” from somewhere in the corner.

From there, one woman would begin a song and everyone else would eventually join in. Musical parts were arranged not by the tone of one’s voice, but rather by seniority. So, for example, even if a young man would naturally sing a bass part, because of his age he would sing a tenor or baritone part. One or two women in the church also kept the rhythm by beating on a small wooden board covered with a padded piece of vinyl or leather; it could best be described as a hand pillow. There was also no organ, piano, or other instrument, but the room was never the less filled with the intensity of all the voices.

Again, I closed my eyes and was moved almost to tears. The people there clearly had so little, but gave so much. They welcomed us in literally with open arms, and open hearts, and this, to me, was so amazing given South Africa’s history of apartheid and racial and class tension. At one point, everyone was asked to give whatever was in their pockets, and everyone in the church contributed. Again, I was struck at how giving everyone was, even though they monetarily must have had so little. The money, it was later explained, was to be used for things such as air conditioning, as the building was unbelievably hot.

Words will never be able to describe what I felt that day, or how moved I was, or how much it changed me. At one point, some of the members were dancing and singing, and I was pulled in, along with another student, Dan. We clearly did not know what to do, but it was so amazing to feel like we were a part of the service. Everyone around was smiling, and I, myself, could not wipe the smile off my face.

Ubuntu, I am because we are, is a reference to the fact that we are all connected. That day at the church, I felt connected not only to every one I traveled here with, not only everyone in this church, but the country as a whole. I felt like I was a part of something, like I was allowed a glimpse into this amazing country with an unbelievably complicated history. I felt like I was allowed a glimpse into the lives of some of those in the townships, and was able to see their selflessness, humility, and grateful nature. Not once did I hear anyone ask, “why me, why are things so bad here?” What I did hear, though, was the questions of, “what can I give and what can I do?”

I feel as though I have so much I can learn here, and I want to take advantage of every moment. Everyone refers to the concept of South African time, as things move so much slower here. The days seem so much longer, but I also seem to be so much more aware of every moment, every person I pass, and every feeling I have. I feel more connected to the people around me, and overall, more connected to this world. I have not yet been here for two weeks, and I can already say that I am a different person, and I can only imagine how different I will be when I return home. The people here have reminded me how lucky I am and how thankful I am for each moment I am given. The energy of this country is not one I will ever be able to explain, but my hope is that it is an energy that will become a part of me, and that one that will remain with me forever.
"You must be the change you wish to see in the world."
-Mahatma Gandhi

Chelsea, Emily A, Michelle

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