Reflections of Faina

Last Saturday our group of 15 and Marita were determined to see a performance at the Baxter Theatre, which is connected with the University of Cape Town. This day started with miscommunication and changes of plans but ended with something amazing. In the morning we all decided we were going to see Shakespeare’s “The Tempest” at 8pm. We looked for the prices online and saw that we did not get a student discount because it was a Saturday. We also decided we would buy tickets early as to have seats reserved when we got there. While I was in the process of collecting money someone told me that they called the theatre and they told him that we did get a discount if we just showed up 30 minutes early for the show. So we did not buy the tickets in advance but just waited until night time.

At 6:30pm we all got ready and walked over to the Theatre which is on Main Road. However, at the ticket booth they told us that not only was there no discount but that “The Tempest” was sold out! This news prompted most of our group to go back home, leaving Michelle, Marita and I to find a play that was not sold out. Thankfully there was one showing at the same time: “Tshepang.” We bought the tickets and waited for the time to enter the theatre.

When we got to the floor where the theatre was located we entered and took our seats in the second row. This theatre was very small and the seats were all close together. Although I had a seat in the middle section and Marita and Michelle in the right section we still sat directly next to each other. This made the performance more personal. We did not know what to expect, or what the show would be about. While reading the pamphlet about the show I saw that the theme would be infant rape. This took me aback as I did not expect it and I was anxious to know the plot.

The stage was set up with a bed on the left with statues all around. In the center was a pile of what looked like sand and on the right were miniature replicas of township houses. The piece began with a woman named Ruth sitting on the pile of sand rubbing a cloth continuously on the sand. There was also a man with her and he would narrate the story. He began by talking about his early life and the culture that surrounded his town. He told a story of how him and his friends, when they were younger, would pay to have sex with a girl and also how a woman had a baby but left it to him to care for while she went to Cape Town. He explained how his friends would mock him and call him a “Sissie” because he would care for the little girl and do everything for her. Throughout the plot stories unraveled that tried to show the social problems that culminated and evolved into a culture of abuse and violence. In this instance it became evident that the women were looked at as the only possible care giver for a child and that a man is mocked and shamed if he takes this role. Later the woman who left the child came back to reclaim her after several years and he could do nothing but return her after he practically raised her.

As he continued he described the story of Ruth, whom he always liked. He said of how she dated a man and one night she went out drinking with her friend and left her 9 month old child with her boyfriend. The boyfriend raped the young baby and left it outside. When someone bumped into the baby there was huge commotion and soon the press, news and everyone else came to the town. It became a big drama when at first it was said the child was raped by six men. When this was found to be false and Ruth confessed that it was her boyfriend all of the blame went on her. People accused her of being a bad mother and not taking care of the baby. No one blamed the man or even talked extensively about him. This shows how the blame is placed on the woman who is really the victim of a violent and abusive man. Instead of trying to counsel and comfort her, the community where she lives and the news surrounding her charged and bashed her. She was shunned and the baby was taken away until she can “grow out of the trauma.”

The narrator expressed that Ruth has not said a word for the three years that has passed since the incident, and that they live there now in shame and sadness. Ruth is waiting for her baby to return, something, the man says, is probably never going to happen. “It is possible, I suppose for the baby to return. So she waits here and hasn’t said a word for three years,” he says. He felt sorry for her and decided to remain by her side. The man explained that their community was raped a long time ago, meaning that the dilapidation and culture of violence has been instilled long before this rape. He recalls when a reporter approached him and asked intrusively, “Where were you?” He exploded back, “Where were YOU?!” He made me realize that these rapes are the responsibility of society and can be ended once communities are improved and the roles of men and women changed. At the end of the play Ruth stands and looks at the audience, with her ragged clothes, hopeless expression and empty cradle tied to her back and whispers, “Tshepang,” the name of her young child.

What was interesting is that the play was in English with excerpts in Africaans which we could not understand. This shows that the theatre going community is fluent in both languages. After the show Ruth and the man exited and we were able to meet them. This performance evoked great emotion from all of the audience and we stood around them amazed at how different Ruth looked in regular clothes. This play was written to depict the 20,000 infant rapes that happen in South Africa every year. It was a fictional account based on real events to show the diverse issues surrounding this horror. The effect was incredible and I was thankful that “The Tempest” was sold old and we were instead able to witness such a significant performance that taught me something real about South Africa.

Faina & Michelle at Companys Garden

Reflections of Steph O

Obama’s inauguration marked a day in history that we will never forget. After watching the inauguration with many American’s and non-Americans at the Library, a few of us decided to head to Long Street for a night of Celebration. When we arrived to Long Street, I was taken back with the amount of people who were also celebrating this historical day. It seemed as though the entire world was waiting for this “change.” As I heard older generations express their excitement for Obama, I began to understand that yes, change is possible. It baffled my mind to imagine what it must have felt like to finally witness a day that some have been waiting for since the 1960’s.  

I envisioned the civil rights movement and the struggle that many Americans fought in the 960’s and 1970’s, and I began to make many connections to the struggle that was waged here in South Africa, at the end of Apartheid just 15 years ago. Hearing first hand stories about the apartheid struggle inspired me in a way that no history book could ever do. The possibility of transformation that prevailed so sincerely in their minds – both then and now – ignited my own optimism and hope.

At one of the restaurants, The Neighborhood, where we had dinner that night, I met a couple of UCT medical students. The topic of conversation quickly progressed to the excitement revolving around Obama, as soon as they learned that we were American. I was surprised at their curiosity towards my thoughts and feelings regarding the affair. I felt as though, for the first time in my life, someone wanted to hear what I had to say politically, instead of simply debate me on the issue. I truly felt comfortable expressing my sincere happiness for the historical day, but I also did not feel restrained against criticizing the U.S. government on certain issues, either. As I explicated my reasoning for losing all hope in government, I looked at one of the students and her facial expression told me she understood. What she said to me next, I will never forget because I believe it to be true. “You can’t rely on government to do good things, everyday people like you and me change the course of history.”

It was right then and there that the phrase, “Yes we can!” went from being just a campaign slogan to a tangible and uplifting mantra. I began to realize that similar to Biko, Mandela, Malcom X, Che, MLK and many other iconic activists, Obama’s words, too, have ignited people to rise up. In many different ways we are all starting to realize how fortunate we truly are to have the opportunity to immerse ourselves in a culture that has proven that political turmoil can be revolutionized to progressive social change. Everyday at our internships, we personally experience the realities of living out Obama’s philosophy, “yes we can,” and I become more and more hopeful for our own future. If there is one place that could plant the seed of hope in the heart of a political pessimist, it is here amidst this burgeoning post-Apartheid democracy in South Africa.

Reflections of Kevin

Rachel, Jordan, Michelle, Chelsea, KEVIN, Ben, Steph, Hannah

I've been in Cape Town for about eighteen days now. The first two weeks have consisted of tourist types of activities, while the past four days have been the beginning of my internship at Cape Nature. Internship days (Monday - Wednesday) require Jordan and I to catch a minibus around 7:15am and arrive in Bellville between 8 and 8:15am. Jordan and I stand out as basically the only white people on these routes and in Bellville. We see maybe one or two other white people in the area during a given day. It's a different racial environment than what I am used to in the USA, but it is similar to my two month stay in Guatemala during the summer of 2008. Standing out doesn't bother me and I find that the lens from my background in economics has me observing how different types of stores and shops are located in different geographic areas based upon race and income.

Internship Day 1: I spent the first day reviewing past annual reports, organization procedures, and research reports to familiarize myself more closely with Cape Nature and its history. It was an awkward day integrating myself into an South African organization because different language and behaviors are used by the workers than what I am used to. My internship time is time when I am away from other U.S. students and am completely immersed in a South African working environment. My interactions at work span further than asking a local for directions or buying something from them because I am working with locals for hours and hours a day. This entails cooperation across cultures and a sensitive understanding that we may not always understand the language, behaviors, and viewpoints of one another because we've grown up around different influences. Respect and common goals enable the cross-cultural work experience to occur when my language, behaviors, and views are different than many of those whom I work with. I see the internship experience as a unique experience that I am grateful of because the skills learned during this time are skills that cannot be easily obtained as a tourist or a traditional study abroad student.

Internship Day 2: Jordan and I spent our second day out on an excursion to one of Cape Nature's reserves in the Southern Cape past the farms of Garbouw. Garbouw is an area where you can see rows and rows of apple trees, pear trees, and grape vines. Trucks drive by you that are stocked to the full of fresh picked fruits. Acres and acres of pine trees are also present in the Garbouw area, but pine trees are a foreign plant species that inhibit water from reaching dams. The removal of pine trees can be seen as you travel through Garbouw, but the process is slow. I'm not too sure about the uses of pine trees either. I'll wikipedia that later. Albi drove us to the reserve. Albi works in the working for water program (more specifically removing invasive alien vegetation so that water can flow to dams more easily). The highlights of day two were hearing Albi's insights about South Africa's current state and traveling a forty minutes up a bumpy road in the back of a pickup truck to check out the condition of a hiking cabin. I was able to listen in on the directors conversation about how they would like to improve the trail and cabin in order to attract more hikers to the trail.

Internship Day 3: I asked Noluthando if she could provide me with any business plans to review. She printed out two for me to review. Both business plans revolve around utilizing and turning cleared invasive alien vegetation into products. The trickledown effect of new small business opportunities for locals that a public institution like Cape Nature is opening up through it's Working For Water program may provide some relief to the 40% unemployment rate in South Africa in a few years time. Some is better than none. Constructing actionable business plans and business training programs for small businesses is something that I will be looking deep into during my time in Cape Town. Entrepreneurship leads to job creation which in turn promotes positive socioeconomic activity. I will be working closely with Noluthando, the entrepreneurs, and visiting various business development organizations and seeing what types of services they offer for prospective entrepreneurs.

Reflections of Julie

Shortly before we left the States for Cape Town, I was informed that I would be interning at Thandokhulu Secondary School, a high school in the suburb of Mowbray. It sounds simple enough, doesn't it? I pictured myself checking homework assignments, grading essays, handing out papers, making copies; the fundamentals of a student-teacher's workload. I never thought I'd be in the position to actually teach the children. The idea itself was laughable to me. How could I possibly be qualified to stand in front of a classroom and impart the necessary knowledge required to pass the dreaded Matric Exams students spend the entire year preparing for? How could I be trusted with the futures of hundreds of students? And yet, on my second day at the school, there I was, with forty pairs of curious eyes trained on me, waiting for me to do something… anything.

The gravity of my position did not dawn on me until just before my first day began, while Faina, Emily and I were riding the minibus taxi to the school. Soon after leaving our humble abode at 10 Loch Road, the panic started to set in. I tried to concentrate on the route the driver was taking, worried we might pass our stop, but even more worried that we'd actually get there. Walking through the gates that led to the school, I was convinced the kids could smell my fear as they stared at us curiously. For once in my life I was the minority, and I was terrified.

Upon arriving, the three of us were paired with teachers who specialized in English or Mathematics. Emily's specialty was Mathematics, so she was spirited away early in the day to teach grades 8 and 9, while Faina and I were shepherded around the school by the buoyant Ms. Bopi. Ms. Bopi is an English teacher for grades 10 through 12, and is one of the few members of the faculty whose name we could actually pronounce without difficulty. I could have sword I met a man with a name that sounded like the word "Tokyo" with small clicks interspersed in between the syllables, but I can't be sure. The act of producing the complicated clicking noises required to pronounce Xhosa names is still beyond me, so I parroted what I heard as best I could and picked up little lessons on pronunciation as the day went on.

During lunch, Ms. Bopi coached us on the correct noises to use for the letters 'C,' 'Ch,' 'K,' and 'Q,' but integrating those sounds into actual words was a bit too much for my American mouth to handle. I felt more than a little silly practicing in the hallways between lessons, reading the student rosters posted outside each classroom, but I knew would need practice if I ever hoped to conquer names like Siphokule, Ncebakzi, and Ntombifuthi in front of a class full of native speakers.

On our first day, Faina and I sat in on Ms. Bopi's classes to get an idea of her style of teaching and of how we would be assisting her in the classroom. It was then that she informed us that, in time, we would be getting the chance to teach lessons on our own. English classes are primarily composed of government-mandated lessons that test the comprehension skills of the students. Most students are fairly proficient in English by grade 10, even though they only begin to learn English in grade 8. Learners are confined to the use of English during lessons, and Xhosa (their first language) is only used outside the classroom.
The first lesson that Faina and I sat in on was a point of contention for us. The assignment called on students to read a short article entitled Men Are From Mars and Women Are From Venus and to answer questions based on the ideas they gleaned from the article. The article summarized many of the ideas discussed in the famous (and notoriously sexist) book of the same name; namely, that men and women are biologically and psychologically different. According to the article, the different distributions of white and grey matter in the brain can account for certain behavioral differences in men and women. It tried to justify that timidity, emotionality, and reliance on relationships for support are innately female traits due to the amount of white matter in the female brain. By the same token, the article asserted that because of a predominance of grey matter, men tend to be more naturally aggressive, dominating, withdrawn, and unemotional in relationships. At the end of this article, the students were asked questions about the differences between men and women, like what jobs they would be better suited for, or what roles they adopt in relationships as a result of their "natural differences." Considering my position as a Women's Studies student, it was difficult for me to listen to Ms. Bopi read from an article that contained so much misinformation and sexist propaganda. It was even more difficult to sit there silently, knowing every student in the class took the information in the article as fact. Adding to my frustration was the fact that every subsequent lesson taught by Ms. Bopi that day included the use of this article. The idea that the government of South Africa, generally progressive in its stance on sexism as compared to other countries, would approve of such material being taught in a classroom left me shocked and appalled.

On a more positive note, our second day was much better in terms of the subject matter of lessons, and both Faina and I had a more hands-on experience teaching the students towards the end of the day. We also had more opportunities to socialize with students one-on-one, something I'd been waiting to do since I learned I'd be working at the school.

It was during one of our breaks on the second day that we were approached by an English teacher in grade 8, who pleaded with Ms. Bopi to allow him to use us as assistants in his class. For the first 45 minutes of our double period, we watched him guide the students through interpreting a poem about poverty and crime in South Africa. Then, in an unexpected turn of events, he turned the lesson over to us, and asked us to supervise the students alone as they worked in groups to answer questions about the poem. It was strangely empowering to get the chance to put my skill set in interpreting poetry to good use, but I struggled to simplify my language so students could understand me. Even though I was daunted by the language barrier, I look forward to facing more challenges like this in the future.

The schedule at Thandokhulu is very loose in terms of when teachers arrive to teach classes. Each class stays in the same room all day with the exception of several break periods, while teachers move around as needed. That meant that every time a teacher was late to class, Faina and I had the opportunity to have question and answer sessions with students, most of whom were itching to know about us and where we came from. Many of the children had questions about whether or not we knew American celebrities or approved of Barrack Obama, and one girl in grade 8 insisted that pop singer Beyoncé was her sister. Some were more curious about why we had chosen to come to South Africa, while other more brazen male students asked if we had boyfriends. In my last class of the day, I had the opportunity to talk at length with two very well spoken grade eleven girls named Pumeza and Sindiswa, and at the end of the conversation, I felt sure I was on my way to making my first real South African friends.

There seem to be two things that there are never enough of at Thandokhulu: books and chairs. In many classes Faina and I attended, students bent over backwards to accommodate us, sharing chairs barely big enough for one person so that we would have a place to sit. If there did happen to be extra chairs in a classroom, they were quickly appropriated by students from other classes, so students had to act quickly if we wanted seats. I was touched (but also embarrassed) by how generous and welcoming the students were, and the more time I spent with them, the more I began to realize that they were just as nervous about interacting with me as I was with them. They were so desperate to make a good impression that some shy students even covered their mouths when speaking to me for fear that I would judge their English.

Much of the time on our second day was taken up by the distribution of books, a process that required many students to pair up and share to combat the chronic shortages. Students painstakingly covered their books and notebooks with plastic or paper to protect them from being damaged. All the learners share their personal supplies with one another. I frequently saw tape, scissors, pens, and whiteout flying through the air as they passed from one student to another. I also noticed that many students sell snacks during class to make extra money, toting huge bags of biscuits or potato chips around all day and clandestinely trading their goods for money under the desks. I learned from Ms. Bopi that this is strictly forbidden, but many teachers turn a blind eye to this practice because they know that for many students, every cent counts.

It's hard to believe that I've only been at my internship for two days because I've learned so much. Much of what I've learned has been heartbreaking or difficult to come to terms with, like the reality of the students' poverty, and the poorly furnished classrooms they inhabit. But the more I interact with the students, the more opportunities I see for unlocking their virtually unlimited potential, and the more hope I have for the future. If I can reach just one student in my work at Thandokhulu, I know I'll consider my stay here to have been a success.

The joy of arriving at the top of Table Mountain

(Julie front center)

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Reflections of Jill

It is impossible to describe the impoverished townships that surround Cape Town to someone who has not observed them firsthand. Before departing from the US, I thought that last year’s students had provided us with a very solid understanding of these difficult areas. My only concern was that I would be overcome with pity for the hundreds of thousands of people who live in such poor conditions. But three days into my internship at Christel House, I have begun interacting with these people, and already I realize that they need not be pitied; instead, the optimism they maintain despite such hardship is overwhelmingly inspiring.

Christel House South Africa is a private K-12 school whose aim is to help the children from these townships break the cycle of poverty. Founded by Christel DeHaan, the former head of RCI vacation group, Christel House receives over 600 applications each year for its 60-student incoming class. The school’s principal, along with social workers and counselors, visits each applicant’s home to assess the child’s living conditions and family environment. Once accepted, the child receives a holistic private school education at no charge to the family. Christel House pays for the learners’ clothing, meals, transportation, and extra-curricular activities. Counselors work with the children’s families, helping them to understand the value of education to ensure the cooperation of parents and siblings. Workshops are held frequently to teach the parents how to sew or cook; skills that are used not only in helping to make the school uniforms and meals, but also later to help the parents secure employment for themselves. Additionally, a full medical staff tends to the students’ physical, mental, dental, and nutritional health needs. My internship is in the Marketing/Public Relations office. In brief, my responsibilities include securing funding from corporations and private donors so that Christel DeHaan can free up her personal money to open other schools (currently, there are 5 Christel Houses throughout the world).

Right now, the school is preparing to move into its new premises in Ottery, a few short miles from its current location. The inauguration ceremony will be held in March, and much is being done to prepare for the ceremony. My boss Sharon, the director of Marketing/Development, was interviewed by two newspapers this week. The second reporter asked to speak to some students about their experiences at the school. The girl who spoke was from Mitchell's Plain, one of the townships. I have yet to master her name- it incorporates the Xhosa “clicks”- a challenge still too steep for my American mouth! Sharon told me that this girl lives in a one-room shack with seven other family members. After school, she is expected to cook, clean, and care for her other siblings. During exams, she stays with one of her teachers so that she may have a quiet room to use for studying. No one in her family has had formal schooling, and it would seem that her life was destined for poverty. The odds have been stacked against her for her whole life, but she has remained hopeful despite the hand she was dealt. Shattering any stereotypes of kids from poor neighborhoods being troublemakers or impolite, she conducted herself flawlessly throughout the interview. Always addressing the reporter as “ma’am”, she was more polite and well-spoken than most of my college peers. She answered the reporter’s questions fluidly, emphasizing her gratitude for the endless opportunities Christel House has given her. Listening to the interview, I began to realize fully the impact Christel House has on the lives of its learners. The kids receive not only an academic education, but also the tools to transform their own lives holistically. I felt foolish for thinking I would pity these people. Instead, their hopefulness and buoyancy in the face of such unbearable odds has already inspired me to appreciate my own life more. If these kids can come from nothing- literally, nothing, and still maintain pride and hope for their own futures, then I should surely remain optimistic in my own life. I can only begin to imagine how else our time in Cape Town will change us all.

Reflections of Emily A

For my internship I will be working at Thandahulu high school. The school teaches grades eight through twelve in preparation for the Matric exam at the end of twelfth grade. This exam determines whether or not a student passes high school as well as whether or not he or she may go on to college. For many of the students of Thandahulu, the primary language is Xhosa, one of South Africa’s native languages. However, from high school onwards, all education is taught in English, a secondary or tertiary language, in order to prepare for the Matric. You can imagine how difficult it may be for students to be tested in English considering students will rarely speak it outside of the school environment. Despite the great challenge, students overcome this obstacle remarkably well.

This past year, 84% of the students taking the Matric passed the exam, which was down from 94% the previous year and a record high of 95%. These figures are amazing considering the backgrounds of many of these students. Something that I’ve failed to mention is that Thandahulu is located in a predominantly ‘white,’ rich area and the students must travel great distances costing some of their families more than they can afford in order to attend. Some students travel up to 30-50 kilometers simply to study at this school instead of the local schools. This is a choice the students make and it shows their dedication to their studies. In the local schools pass rates are horribly low and furthering education seems impossible. Despite the drop in the percentage of students passing the exam at Thandahulu, a pass rate this high is remarkable and reason for celebration.

Our first day at the school also happened to be the students’ first day back from the summer holiday. As such, there was a welcoming assembly for all of the students. As we arrived for the day, the students were already in a block of semi formed lines. We stood among a huge group of parents watching and waiting for the festivities to begin. It was inspiring to see that so many parents traveled all the way to the school to support their children. Loud music kicked off the celebration with teachers singing along on a microphone to get the students excited. The students stood in an oddly perfect rectangle signing and dancing, flawlessly dressed in their navy school uniforms. It was obvious that they took a certain pride in their appearance as well as their school. As the principal stepped up to begin the assembly, the students fell silent almost immediately and remained this way throughout the two-hour service.

After a few announcements in Xhosa, there was a big welcome for all of the students who had passed the Matric the previous year. Those who could make it to the ceremony walked out as a group amid applause and cheers. It was amazing to see the respect and camaraderie among the students and those who had graduated. The goal of each student in the audience was to do what these students had done, to pass the test against all odds. Everyone was genuinely happy for their accomplishments.

Something I found to be remarkable was that in order to motivate them, a dermatologist working at the Red Cross Hospital in Cape Town promised a large sum of money to those students who had not only passed their exams but received A’s. Seven students met this requirement by getting an A in at least one class. At the ceremony, the doctor from the hospital gave the promised money to each of the deserving students. One student even got five out of six A’s with his sixth mark being a B. This is unheard of and such an accomplishment that the woman doctor presented him with a check for 1500 Rand! This is a huge sum of money in South Africa and represents a lot more than the monetary value. Even greater than the money given, was the effect on the audience. The students went wild knowing that one of them had accomplished so much. A parent standing on the side of the celebration walked right up to the stage and handed this exceptional student 100 Rand! From then on teachers and officials began donating money for the students who would be taking the Matric this coming year and reached a sum of 10,000 Rand! It was a great feeling to see such a pride among the community and to be a part of such an accomplishment.

In the following speeches, a need for goals and dedication was stressed. The dermatologist explained how all her life people told her she could not reach her goals and that she would never be a doctor. Well, she stood in front of us qualified and practicing, proving wrong all those who never believed in her. This is the attitude and mindset that she imposed upon the students: that by working hard you can accomplish anything and the students who passed the Matric were living evidence.

Ten Thandahulu graduates will attend UCT this year. 10 out of about 1,100. That is almost 1% of the graduating class attending the best university on the continent despite all the social and economic issues and all the people who said they couldn’t.

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Reflections of Michelle

Before coming to South Africa, I was introduced to the phrase “Ubuntu,” which translates to “I am because we are.” The first time I heard this, I was so moved and inspired and decided to try to, as much as possible, come into this experience with that same philosophy. I was unsure as to how difficult keeping that mindset would be, given that I was about to be not only an outsider in the country, but a privileged outsider. However, as soon as I stepped outside the plane and into the Cape Town airport, I realized that “Ubuntu” is not only a philosophy or mindset, but a way of life and something which lives in the air here. It is an energy, an overall feeling, that I will never be able to accurately put to words.

My first morning here, I woke up around six a.m. and decided to go outside on our rooftop patio, drink my coffee, and soak up the fact that I was actually in South Africa. I stepped outside and was blown away. The view from our house, and actually from everywhere in Cape Town, is something that will forever be engrained in my mind and heart. When I saw the mountains, the sun, the city, and took a breath in, I felt this overwhelming feeling wash over me. But, the overwhelming feeling was one of happiness and gratitude, because I knew I was seeing something that so few people would ever see. I knew then that I needed to appreciate every moment I had here, and I was more present than I had ever been.

Our next week was filled with so many activities, and I rarely had time to reflect on how I felt or what I was thinking. One of the activities we had planned was a visit to the Sivuyele Baptist Church in Guguletu, where we would be able to attend a Sunday service. At first, I had mixed feelings about this because I personally do not practice any sort of organized religion, and although I consider myself a spiritual person, I have always had trouble understanding how and why people subscribed to a certain set of religious beliefs. I can count on one hand the number of times I have attended church, and was consequently both excited and nervous to attend a religious service in South Africa.

Sivuyele Baptist Church is located in the township of Guguletu. Although in comparison to other townships Guguletu is smaller in size and not as impoverished, it is still nothing like anything I have ever seen in the United States. There are areas in Connecticut and New York City that are very poor, but entering a township, for me, is an entirely different experience. People live in one room huts, so to speak, and many of them have dirt floors and no running water. The areas are very crowded, and there are often animals such as dogs, goats, cows, and even horses roaming.

The church was small in size, and we all entered not knowing what to expect. We were told that people normally dress up for the service, and that most women wear dresses and skirts. We were also told that most of the service would be in Xhosa, but that we would be welcomed and that the church was excited to have us. As we all walked in nervously, we realized how much we stood out, as we were the only “white” people in the congregation.

But, I personally was put to ease immediately as I heard them start singing. We arrived a few minutes after the service began, and filled in as the attendants of the church were singing. Everyone in the church would sing, and their voices gave me chills. I did not know what they were saying, but the emotions were clear and went through me. I wanted so badly to sing with them, to be a part of whatever it was they were saying. I could not help but sway to the music, look around at all the people, and smile.

When the pastor began to speak, I was blown away by his intensity. His voice filled the room, and he spoke so loudly, with such conviction, that he gasped for breaths in between each sentence. I was at first struck by what seemed like yelling, but soon closed my eyes and felt a sense of both peace and inspiration; I tried to imagine what he might be saying, and could only guess that it was of profound meaning to all those in the church. He was often met with an “Amen” or “Oh Jesus” from somewhere in the corner.

From there, one woman would begin a song and everyone else would eventually join in. Musical parts were arranged not by the tone of one’s voice, but rather by seniority. So, for example, even if a young man would naturally sing a bass part, because of his age he would sing a tenor or baritone part. One or two women in the church also kept the rhythm by beating on a small wooden board covered with a padded piece of vinyl or leather; it could best be described as a hand pillow. There was also no organ, piano, or other instrument, but the room was never the less filled with the intensity of all the voices.

Again, I closed my eyes and was moved almost to tears. The people there clearly had so little, but gave so much. They welcomed us in literally with open arms, and open hearts, and this, to me, was so amazing given South Africa’s history of apartheid and racial and class tension. At one point, everyone was asked to give whatever was in their pockets, and everyone in the church contributed. Again, I was struck at how giving everyone was, even though they monetarily must have had so little. The money, it was later explained, was to be used for things such as air conditioning, as the building was unbelievably hot.

Words will never be able to describe what I felt that day, or how moved I was, or how much it changed me. At one point, some of the members were dancing and singing, and I was pulled in, along with another student, Dan. We clearly did not know what to do, but it was so amazing to feel like we were a part of the service. Everyone around was smiling, and I, myself, could not wipe the smile off my face.

Ubuntu, I am because we are, is a reference to the fact that we are all connected. That day at the church, I felt connected not only to every one I traveled here with, not only everyone in this church, but the country as a whole. I felt like I was a part of something, like I was allowed a glimpse into this amazing country with an unbelievably complicated history. I felt like I was allowed a glimpse into the lives of some of those in the townships, and was able to see their selflessness, humility, and grateful nature. Not once did I hear anyone ask, “why me, why are things so bad here?” What I did hear, though, was the questions of, “what can I give and what can I do?”

I feel as though I have so much I can learn here, and I want to take advantage of every moment. Everyone refers to the concept of South African time, as things move so much slower here. The days seem so much longer, but I also seem to be so much more aware of every moment, every person I pass, and every feeling I have. I feel more connected to the people around me, and overall, more connected to this world. I have not yet been here for two weeks, and I can already say that I am a different person, and I can only imagine how different I will be when I return home. The people here have reminded me how lucky I am and how thankful I am for each moment I am given. The energy of this country is not one I will ever be able to explain, but my hope is that it is an energy that will become a part of me, and that one that will remain with me forever.
"You must be the change you wish to see in the world."
-Mahatma Gandhi

Chelsea, Emily A, Michelle

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Reflections of Chelsea

After two weeks’ introduction to Cape Town, we’ve reached the juncture at which we’ve completed our touristy exploration of the Western Cape, and we’re beginning to settle into a comfortable rhythm, here in Rondebosch. The little things, now, have begun to add nuance to our impressions of the city – the minibus taxi rides, the interactions with local vendors and urban commuters, and our experiences moving around in the suburbs and the city.

On Friday, we had our first completely unstructured day of the trip. We’d completed our first day of classes on Thursday, and had in mind for the next day a relaxing afternoon at the beach. We’d visited several prospective destination beaches during the orientation week, and we’d familiarized ourselves with the process of taking the minibuses, so the trip to the beach was hardly one in which we’d expected to do much cultural learning.

But one thing every study abroad student must understand is that every experience abroad is culturally relevant – even the most mundane of activities, like riding public transportation.

As one group set off to Muizenberg beach by train, five of us picked up a minibus outside of the Red Cross Hospital, headed for “Clifton 4”, a beach known for the beauty of both its landscapes and its sunbathers. But the story of the day was hardly our sun-drenched siesta in the sand; the most notable aspect of the little trip was the time we spent en route. It was the way we navigated the downtown minibus terminal during rush hour, through the disorienting sea of bumper-to-bumper vans, staccato car horns, and shouts and whistles. It was the speed and precision (and gumption) with which one driver maneuvered our minibus across three lanes and over a sidewalk to get a few cars ahead. It was the way another of our drivers was caught by the police, attempting to avoid midmorning traffic by cutting the wrong direction down a one-way street.

Before we arrived here, we had a chance to talk with students from last spring’s semester in Cape Town, and the minibuses were a frequent topic of conversation. Their memories of the minibuses always elicited grins and eye rolls, and to those of us who’d never experienced a ride on one, it felt almost like we were missing out on some complex inside joke.

Now we’re beginning to understand…

During rush hour, the downtown terminal – the hub of the minibus taxi service – is an intimidating place for anyone unfamiliar with the cacophonous gridlock and 22 different bus routes. Minibuses are the most affordable means of transportation in Cape Town, and therefore cater to a largely working-class crowd. On the way home from Clifton, with our sandy beach bags and sunburned faces, the five of us could not have looked more like befuddled tourists. We skirted between the tables at the adjacent local market, and then dodged minibuses as they jolted forward to fill every inch of space behind the vans in front of them. The smell of exhaust mixed with the cooking steam rising out the back of a market canopy, and the minibus horns and shouting from the hawkers (the people who are responsible for getting minibus customers and collecting the fares) echoed off the metal canopy roof.

The atmosphere was a little disorienting, but also exhilarating, even as we searched in vain for a minibus headed to our stop: “Rondebosch. Red Cross Hospital.” We attracted many curious and amused eyes, and hawkers leaned out of their vans – even those that were already bursting with passengers – asking us where we needed to go. Every time we answered, they threw up their hands and gestured right or left, rattling off a different lane and route number, and we picked our way back through the minibuses and streams of passengers in the indicated direction. At one point, four or five different men were trying to lead us to what they believed were the “correct” minibus lines. The five of us squeezed along the narrow passages in as tight a group as possible, worried that we might never find one another if separated. But once we finally made it to the Hanover Park minibus, we were ushered on board with an enthusiastic beckon. “Red Cross Hospital? Yes. Yes. Get on.”

On the sardine-tight ride home, we had some time to reflect on the ten minutes we’d just spent in search of our ride home. Mashed in shoulder to shoulder, hip to hip and knee to knee with 18 other passengers, I felt unexpectedly content. I considered the range of factors that had led the drivers and patrons to help us find our way: the genuine desire to help a confused group of “foreigners”, the desire to turn a good profit as minibus drivers, the simple curiosity of finding out where we were headed… But regardless of their motivations, we’d had ten or twenty individuals go out of their way to help us get safely home. And this experience exemplifies the demonstrative character that we’ve encountered time and again from the people of Cape Town.

If any of us came into this abroad program with expectations of animosity from the locals due to the color of our skin, our American accents, or our lack of cultural understanding, we have only seen it disproven, so far.


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More Revelations

A truly great group of students.

When I knew I would be returning to Cape Town this year, I was thrilled and certain beyond a doubt it would be yet another incredible experience for me, as well as for a new group of student. However, I had one nagging concern—how could any group of students possibly be as wonderful or get as much out of the experience as the amazing students who accompanied me on my first life-altering Honors in Cape Town Study Abroad experience??

However, having spent the past two days meeting one on one with each of the 15 students, I now know any reservations I had were totally unfounded. This group is certainly different in many ways ---as evidenced by the fact that although their first two weeks of orientation provided much the same schedule as was given in '08 (with a few notable excepts), this initial introduction has given these '09 students some extremely different experiences and insights! With that realization, and the unbridled enthusiasm of all, any slight apprehension on my part has evaporated as surely as the morning mist ---and why should I be surprised? this is a totally special and unique group—---and . . . THIS IS CAPE TOWN!

As I met with students yesterday and today I shared with them what I had written after our initial class on Thursday evening: “Listening to all 15 students describe thoughts and feelings about their first 11 days here has convinced me that if all were to leave Cape Town tomorrow, each would have gotten more than their money's worth from this experience!” Each and every student, without reservation, agreed whole-heartedly with that assessment. It is quite astonishing to consider just how much each has gained personally and academically ---even before beginning their internships --–which is the primary reason why most were attracted to this particular program in the first place.

As I mentioned before, and students concur, despite the eloquence of language or artistic ability of the photographer, there is absolutely no way to explain the Cape Town experience to one who has not been here. As hard as we try to articulate the experience, words are simply inadequate to describe the magnitude of the transformation that occurs. Time flies by as if in a blink of an eye, and yet . . . it seems as if we have been here for ever! We recognize that we are in a strange country, half way around the world from family and friends, and yet . . . we are feeing almost at home. Despite our being so obviously American, and standing out wherever we go, almost everyone we meet seems to be happy to go out of their way to be helpful. And when we thank a stranger for providing assistance of any type, the most typical response is . . . "pleasure!" . . . said in such a way that it is easy to believe they sincerely mean that it has been a pleasure for them to be of help.

It's not just what happens with others, but also countless opportunities to learn from one another beyond anything that could have been anticipated. For example, living in a house with 15 people could be an educational experience under any circumstances, but in Cape Town such seemingly mundane lessons are becoming truly life-altering. Students have realized that it is very unlikely they would have ever been friends with the housemates they have here if they were still in Storrs--- not only because of the size of the campus and their different social networks, but also because of the judgments they might have made about people so very different from themselves! What a valuable way to uncover theories regarding unacknowledged stereotypes! How very informative to see for one's self how easily preconceived judgments of others so often prevent us from getting to know some of the nicest and most interesting people!

Yet, while we seem to be learning some new and important bits of information ALL the time, there still are ample opportunities to have some great fun in the process. In addition to students taking time from their busy schedules for their one on one conversations with me (which included lunch for those wise enough to sign up to meet at my flat during the lunch-hour time slots) all were able to have some well-deserved free time to take pleasure in the gorgeous weather and spectacular countryside.

Friday was spent enjoying two of the many Cape Town Beaches , as some headed to Muizenberg on the train, and others to Clifton Beach 4 on a minibus taxi. While several learned yet again the painful lesson of just how easily one can get too much sun in the southern hemisphere, all seemed to savor a free day of relaxation and summertime fun.

Saturday provided some time to settle in while beginning to plan how and when to tackle those every day tasks that can pile up when not addressed on a regular basis, such as: laundry, shopping, reading, writing, and homework, to name a few. Most seemed content to take the time necessary to complete (or at least begin to work on) these tasks with the promise of more fun to come as they made plans to attend a play or go to a club in the evening.

While some of the group opted for an evening out in Obs, nine students and I headed to the Baxter Theatre to see The Tempest. However, due to some misinformation and miscommunication, we arrived at the theatre only to discover that the play was sold out!!!

Quite a disappointment for all but while some in the group decided to leave the theatre and make other plans for the evening, Michelle, Faina and I decided that, since we had already walked down to the theatre, and there was another play being performed at the much smaller studio theatre, we would just stay to attend that show. And we are all so very thankful that we did!!!

In the Baxter Theatre Sanlam Studio, we were privileged to be present at one of most profoundly moving theatrical performances any of us had ever seen: Tshepang, directed by Lara Foot Newton,
 scenography by Gerhard Marx,
 starring Mncedisi Shabangu and Constance Didi. As if seeing the show wasn’t worthwhile enough, following the performance, we had an opportunity to meet and speak with both of the remarkable actors from this incredible two-person show!

I think the three of us agree that whether or not we are able to attend The Tempest before it closes on 6 Feb, we will remain eternally thankful that tonight’s performance was sold out, and that we made the choice to attend Tshepang!

Following the show we stopped at the Hussard Grill for a bite to eat before calling a metered taxi to drive us home. Upon the expert advise of a very handsome server, we called Elite Taxi, and had to agree, it was a ‘prompt, reliable, and inexpensive’ mode of transport --–with a great driver, Romeo, who obviously had made many trips to Loch Rd with previous student groups.

Tomorrow we leave for Kirstenbosch at 10:00 a.m. for a day of climbing Table Mountain (at least for the many athletic members of the group), viewing the amazing flowers in the Botanical Gardens, taking pictures, picnicking, and attending the 5:30 concert with Prime Circle, billed as “South Africa’s most successful rock group."

Postscript: When we arrived at Kirstenbosch we discovered the concert for the evening was sold out (next time we will check before planning to attend a Sunday evening concert).  Twelve students decided to hike Table Mountain. After some fabulous picture taking, decided rather than return to Kirstenbosch they would take the cable car down the mountain and were picked up there by the transport we had arranged for the day.  Three students relaxed and enjoyed the day at the gardens. I returned to my flat to get some work done.

Pictures available

I have finally made a little time and found a bit of available bandwidth, to begin uploading some of the pictures.

Pictures of Moyo at Stellenbosch are now available at http://picasaweb.google.com/marita.mccomiskey/Moyo#

More blogs and pictures

Chelsea has created her own blog, which is truly remarkable, and given me permission to provide a link. I highly recommend you check it out.

Beginning Sunday, 25 Jan. students will be submitting short essays that will be posted to this blog. With 91 days remaining, each student will provide 6 entries (about one every other week). I am sure anyone following the blog will find their insights, analysis, reflections and pictures to be extremely worthwhile and illuminating.

I will from time to time also provide postings, but this will primarily become a compilation of student experiences. I will also provide links to those blogs created by other students.

Stay tuned . . .

Change of pace

21-22 Jan: Total change of pace for me.

Wednesday was the first day since we arrived that I had a ‘free’ day--- while the students did some exploring, shopping, and relaxing on their own. As wonderful as the past 10 days have been, it was marvelous for me to have a bit of time to catch my breath.

While the students were learning the enjoyment (and challenges) of minibus taxi transportation into town, finding their way to the Jammie Shuttle (which provides free transport to campus for those not wanting to climb the mountain), and/or relaxing around the pool, I settled back into ‘my flat’ which truly does feel like coming home.

In addition to having a bit of time to myself, today gave me a chance to reconnect with some folks I met while here last year. Lunch with Ronnie Ngalo gave me a chance to hear more about the wonderful work he is doing in Nyanga. For his full time job, Ronnie works at MoloSongololo, a children’s rights NGO where, Joelle (Honors in Cape Town '08), did her internship last year. I was fortunate to get to know Ronnie when I accompanied him and Joelle on some of their township school visits while they were recruiting learners for a program directed at young men and boys. (pictures of Ronnie working in those schools can be found at http://picasaweb.google.com/marita.mccomiskey/TownshipSchoolsWithMoloSongololo#).

Knowing Ronnie had been extremely sick, having spent several of the past 7 months in the hospital, it was wonderful to see him back on his feet and looking so happy and healthy! His enthusiasm about the work he is doing is truly inspirational. An extremely faith-filled person, Ronnie is convinced that his life has been spared because there is still much for him to share with the world--and he surely does have a commitment to do that.

In the afternoon I was able to enjoy tea-time with Lumka Qinela, a woman so full of life that her cheerfulness is truly contagious. Lumka, who will turn 35 on 3 Feb, was explaining to me that as she turns 35 this year she will now have to be a “real” grown-up. Since I have children both older and younger then Lumka, she contends should be my middle child---and my only “daughter! With that realization she instructed me to tell my four sons "they now have a sister in South Africa!" Lumka always finds a way to make me laugh--- listening to stories about her kids and sharing such easy conversation over a cup of tea and her favorite chocolate cookies, reminded me again of how great it is to be back. ( Lumka and her children, Nontombi and Chris, live in Khayelitsha)

Having done some catching up with great people, I spent much of the remainder of day shopping and cooking for students---since we decided my class will be held each Thursday from 4:30-7:30, at my flat---and I will provide dinner. Perhaps I planned an overly ambitious menu considering I am still attempting to stock the flat with staples, as well as relearning the challenges of shopping without a car—--great exercise but a bit time consuming when one considers the fact that I am among the world’s worst shoppers—thus requiring me to return to the store -- several times! Love to cook –hate to shop!

Thursday, 22 Jan, first day of classes!
As I did last year, in addition to teaching one class on Race and Gender in a Globl Perspective, I plan to attend both the other classes the students will be taking.

Vincent William's, whose primary job is as an executive staff member of IDASA, “an independent public interest organisation committed to promoting sustainable democracy based on active citizenship, democratic institutions, and social justice,” will teach a course on the history and politics of South Africa. In his first class he was able to remarkably present a 300 year history in just over two hours—a great foundation upon which he will build throughout the remainder of the semester.

Vernon Rose, UConn's incredible Cape Town coordinator for the program, assigned students a journal writing exercise which provided a great opportunity to reflect upon some of the amazing experiences they have had in the "Mother City." In addition, his "exploration of the city assignment" challenged each group of students to locate the means of transportation necessary to get to a specific place. Completing that assignment enabled everyone to begin to feel comfortable with finding their way around. and with Vernon’s expert ability to find the perfect placement for each student, everyone is eagerly looking forward to beginning their internships on Monday morning!)

For their final class of the day, students arrived at my flat where we began with a discussion of assignments and projects they would do to encourage the integration of theory and practice throughout their adventures in Cape Town. Having participated in the pre-departure class during fall semester, we had begun to lay the groundwork which enabled us to work as co-educators on a consensus decision-making exercise to establish specific project assignments and evaluation criteria for the class. Next, each student described one or two things they have learned about South Africa and themselves since they arrived.

Listening to all 15 students describe thoughts and feelings about their first 11 days here convinced me that if they were to leave Cape Town tomorrow, each would have gotten more than their money's worth out of the experience! Student after student confirmed that nothing they could have heard or read about Cape Town would have prepared them for the actuality. The breathtaking beauty, the incredible poverty, the friendliness of everyone they have met, the heartbreaking legacy of apartheid, the inspirational accomplishments of so many, the astonishing work being done at the numerous NGOs we visited ---have all left a permanent imprint on their hearts and minds. Some found it amazing that people in a humble, non-air conditioned church in Guguletu radiate more hope and joy than they had ever seen in extremely well-resourced churches at home. Others recognized that despite all the time many of us spend talking about things, we too often spend little time listening, communicating, connecting with others on a truly personal level. While becoming unplugged (from email, face-book, texting) allowed at least one person to face just how much time can be used on such activities without even noticing. Realizing that there is not simply a different pace in Cape Town but also a very different approach to life, relationships, conversations, and possessions, has been an eye-opening experience. Student after student spoke of feeling content, at peace, at home.

Following our truly amazing conversation, we combined eating dinner with watching Part I of the PBS series Race: the Power of an Illusion: the Difference Between Us. This film shows that despite what most of us have been taught to believe, "the world's peoples simply don't come bundled into distinct biological groups. The story follows a dozen students, including Black athletes and Asian string players, who sequence and compare their own DNA to see who is more genetically similar. The results surprise the students and the viewer, when they discover their closest genetic matches are as likely to be with people from other "races" as their own." Thinking and talking about the social construction of race and the multiple ways “science” has been used (misused) to justify some of the most horrific human rights abuses, was quite a bit to digest.

The remainder of the class entailed creating class groups for a semester long project, discussing potential activist projects, and making a class decision on how to best put together a symposium for the UConn community when we return to campus. While some left discussing plans for an evening out on the town and others headed off for a run around the commons before sunset, I was left to reflect upon how amazingly well everyone seems to be approaching their time here. Heeding the advice of students from last year, everyone appears committed to not wasting any of their precious time. Whether they are working on social justice issues, seeing the amazing sights, or simply having a fun time, all seem determined to make the very most of every moment –each in their own unique way.

Visiting Placement Sites

This week began with an opportunity to visit each of the placement sites where students will be interning throughout the semester. This was a great overview of many of the schools and NGOs in the area as supervisors from each organization took the time to meet with all of us, tell us about the work they are doing, and answer our questions.

Monday morning we headed into town for our first stop at the The Sonke Gender Justice Network where Hannah and Steph O will be interning. This is an incredible organization that works with men, women, youth and children to: achieve gender equality, prevent gender based violence, and reduce the spread of HIV and the impact of AIDS. There flagship project is One Man Can. which supports men and boys to take action to end domestic and sexual violence and to promote healthy, equitable relationships that men and women can enjoy - passionately, respectfully and fully. Both the director Dean Peacock and the research manager Wessel van den Berg took time to explain their programs to us. Approaching those with whom they work as people of ‘potential’ as opposed to people ‘at risk’ certainly provides a positive framework from which to go into the community. Both SSteph O. and Hannah seem to be extremely pleased with their assignment.

Next stop Black Sash which is where Cassidy and Chelsea will be working each Monday through Wednesday. Founded by middle class "white" women as an anti-apartheid organisation, Black Sash has continue to address the ever changing needs of South Africa as the country moves toward the ideals stated in its 'new' constitution. Believing in making Human Rights real, Black Sash works to empower marginalized communities and individuals to speak for themselves in order to effect change in their social and economic circumstances. They work to achieve these goals through Rights Education, Advocacy, and Advice Giving. Jane Coombe, National Programme Director, having been certain to provide us all with a pleasant snack of juice and cookies, took the time to discuss the profound history, hard working present and hopeful future of this organisation, about which she is obviously passionate.

Emily A., Faina and Julie were all excited to meet with Mr. deVilliers, the acting principal of Thandohulu Senior High (and all were pronouncing the name of the school properly by the time we completed are visit). Although located just a short Minibus ride from the students house, the students in the school travel from townships from throughout the area. As with all schools in the area, there is a fee to attend the school (about 350 Rand) and students must pay for transport (the travel by train or minibus and some travel for over 50 kilometers). This is a school that whose focus is on maths and science, and I trust Emily’s enthusiasm for math will be a wonderful asset to her teaching. Julie and Faina will be working with the head of the English department. Students have been on holiday since early December and return to school for the start of a new school year on 21 January. The three interns were invited to attend the opening assembly which will kick off the first day. Assembly’s are held outside since there is no room in the school large enough to accommodate the entire student population.

A quick stop on Main Road for everyone to grab a take away lunch and we were on our way to Bellville to visit CapeNature , where manager Ben van Staden and supervisor Nollithando Saki told us about some of the work done on the reserves of the Western Cape and had an opportunity to meet with Kevin and Jordan who will be interning with them. Advising them both to be certain to wear hiking boots whenever they will be traveling to the reserves, Jordan and Kevin will no doubt get to see more of the Western Cape than any of the rest.
As we headed by to the house, following an very long and informative day, everyone agreed that they were glad to have had the chance to visit the placement sites where their housemates will be interning. Students will officially begin their work at each organization on Monday, 26 January. Learning the dress codes, hours of work, and means of transportation to one’s placements, as well as understanding a bit more about the organizations and meeting supervisors, are some of the important lessons of this week.

Tuesday morning started at 8:30 as we headed to Christel House School. Although three students interned there last year what has happened since the is absolutely unbelievable. The mission of Christel House South Africa, which is to help children break the cycle of poverty and become self-sufficient, contributing members of their society, has remained the same. However, as of May 2008 they have been preparing to move to a new school that is to be completed by 2 February. We began our visit at the site of the new school where we were met by the engineer who has designed this campus and has a vision that excited everyone one of us. While Jill will be working with Sharon Williams, Development Director, and Rachel will be working in a classroom setting, many of us will no doubt want to stay informed on the innovative direction in which this school is headed. We returned to the old school to meet with the principal and social worker of the school who provided the strength of the history and hope for the future. To get a small idea of some of the work done at this school since it first opened in 2001, check out the YouTube video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypo2ZJeVuzg.

From Christel House we traveled to he Saartjie Baartman Centre for Women and Children (SBCWC ) which is a ‘one-stop centre for women and children who are survivors of abuse.’ Whose vision is the creation of a safe and secure society and a human rights culture where women and children are empowered to exercise their full rights. This is where Stephanie Y will intern. We all received an overview of the work done at SBCWC by Ilse Ardedse, the centre director. During our conversation with Ilse she asked Stephanie if she might be interested in teaching a class on basic computer skills for the residents of the shelter. An enthusiastic response from Stephanie seems to have set up her first project at her placement.

Lunch at the Ocean Basket, which some compared to Red Lobster in the states, seemed to be a big hit with the majority. While there Vernon, who truly does seem to know everyone in Cape Town, introduced me to his cousin, who works at the mall and is doing research with someone who may have graduated from UConn and the owner of this franchise, who wanted to know if their food was as good as food in the states!

Next placement stop, Treatment Action Campaign (TAC), located in Site B, Khayelitsha, where Dan will be interning. TAC was founded in 1998 as a campaign for treatment of people with HIV and to reduce new HIV infections. TAC efforts have resulted in many life-saving interventions, including the implementation of country-wide mother-to-child transmission prevention and antiretroviral treatment programmes. The TAC also runs a treatment literacy campaign which is a training programme on the science of HIV treatment and prevention. Mandla Majola, District Organiser, explained to us that of the 700,000+ people living in Khayelistsha it is estimated that over 70,000 are HIV positive but only about 10,000 are on ARVs. Mandla and those working in various programs described the work they are doing, how much has been accomplished and how very much is needed to insure that no one dies of AIDS.

Last placement stop was at the Olive Leaf Foundation, also located in Khayelitsha, was formerly associated with Hope World Wide but has moved in another direction during the past year. Now a South African registered development organisation whose purpose is to ‘enable sustainable community development’ recognising that the solution to the developmental problems disadvantaged communities face are to be found in the stakeholders themselves. To strengthen their new Identity as a developmental organisation. Was one of the reasons they have departed from the name HOPE worldwide. Under the leadership of Joan Daries, who will be the direct supervisor for Michelle and Emily G, Olive Leaf has a strong focus on volunteer and Internship opportunities for international students.

At each placement we visited throughout our two day whirlwind tour, someone brought up the subject of Barack Obama. The hopeful excitement about our new president could be heard wherever we went! As we ended our day of touring, plans were being made as to how and where folks would watch the inauguration and celebrate the new era of our country. Various groups of students headed into town to the library where the US Consulate had arranged to have a live stream throughout the ceremonies. I went with RA Ben to watch the inauguration with Esme and Lindiwe Rose at their home.

Those who know me will not be surprised to hear that tears of joy flowed freely throughout the inauguration speech. Having spent many, many years working to keep hope alive, tonight I felt an expansive hopefulness for our world that I have not experienced in a very long time. Peace and endless possibilities to all.

Our first weekend in Cape Town: 17-18 January 2009

Nearly 48 hours without internet in my flat and I survived but did get a few days behind in posting. Beginning next week, students will have the opportunity to begin posting their responses to their time here.

In the meantime:

Saturday was a layback, fun day of visiting two very different wineries.

First the family owned and operated Altydgedacht Estate, one of the historic farms established in 1698 on the fertile slopes of the Tygerberg. Altydgedacht has been in the Parker family since 1852 and UCT student, Richard Parker, son of the owners, did an excellent job of first providing an overview of the history of the farm and then explaining the wine making process itself. Contrasting the ways in which wine making is done on this family farm with how it is done on the large commercial farms was an informative overview. He and his father provided each of us who cared to try a taste of their five most popular wines and clear explanation of criteria by which wine is judged. Following that they encouraged us to rate each wine based on the same scales used in official competition—as a group we apparently rated very closely to that at their recent competition –not bad considering none of us had any idea how to evaluate wine prior to their explanation.

Following the wine tasting students were allowed to board a special truck for a ride around their vineyards (adding to that experience-- the truck broke down and a large pickup truck was sent to fetch the students).


Then on to Moyo at Stellenbosch and Spiers Winery. “Under the starlight African sky, set in a garden in the Western Cape Wine lands, this unlike any other restaurant.” An African buffet of Afriwith food galore for everyone, entertainment, beautiful setting between the trees. After lunch some checked out the gift stores, wine shop, and craft market. A warm breezy day provided the perfect backdrop for our final touristy orientation day.

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Sunday morning we drove to the township of Guguletu, Xhosa word meaning “our pride.” There we were welcomed as we attended church services at the Sivuyile National Baptist Church. Sivuyile means “joy” and attending that two hour service certainly provided a glimpse of the unbridled joy that radiates from the folks singing, dancing and praising the Lord.

From there we drove to Vangate Mall for lunch and then back to Guguletu to begin a short tour of the townships. Dr. Guma (Tops) rode with us to provide a historical perspective on many of the places we visited, beginning at the Gugulethu Seven Memorial:l“Built to commemorate the death of seven young black activists from the Cape township Gugulethu on 3 March 1986, the Gugulethu Seven Memorial consists of seven solid and powerful granite statue-like constructions, sculpted by the South African artists Donovan Ward and Paul Hendricks.” Walking a short distance we arrived at the Amy Biel and heard the story of the foundation her parents established to carry on her work in South Africa, yet another profound story of reconciliation in a country where the evidence of hope and healing continue to inspire.

One of the high points of my visit to Guguletu was that I was able to reconnect with a young woman I had met last year. Noluyanda and I have been able to stay in touch through facebook and email but it was wonderful to have a chance to see her and her son Lonwabo again. She was able to join us for our ride to Khayelitsha , which is the largest township in the Cape Flats (estimate over 800,000 people though there is no way of knowing since there are large informal settlements that encompasses much of the area. This is one of areas where the legacy of apartheid, and the Group Areas Act, is sorrowfully evident in the Cape Town area.

There will be time throughout our time here to get to know many of the amazing people who live and work in Khayelitsha, but for today, we heard stories from Dr. Guma and climbed to the top of Lookout Hill for a view of the vast area of this township where Table Mountain provides an amazing backdrop. The contrast between the breathtaking beauty and painful reality for so many is something that never gets easier for me to comprehend. Perhaps for students, seeing this for the firsttime, will begin a process of grappling with the enormity of the challenges here. Fortunately for all of us, having spent a few hours with the folks in Guguletu, we can build on the joy, hope, and commitment to building a better world.
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