Catching up and moving on

A rainbow from when we first arrived in the Drakensburg Mountains

For those who have been following the Honors in Cape Town blog on a regular basis since we arrived — and those who may have been frustrated during the previous 8-10 days when the daily posts stopped appearing, I am writing to let you know....... your wait for receiving the latest news on our adventures is over!!

Beginning today, you will hopefully be able to get your daily virtual update from 15 study abroad students who have just returned from their weeklong excursion and braced themselves for the final four weeks of our time together in Cape Town.

The failure to maintain our consistent posting was due in part to the spotty internet connections before we left, followed by our being disconnected from the internet for nearly a week as we enjoyed our whirlwind break on the eastern coast of South Africa! With that said, it has taken a day or two to get caught up BUT, I am happy to report, we are nearly back on our blogging track.

Although I am convinced that a few blog entries may still be drifting around some where in cyber space, the majority have found there way back into my inbox and have been uploaded to our blog at http://cptadventures09.blogspot.com/

Although 8 or more entries were actually posted today, I maintained the once a day due dates just to keep the posts consistent.

For those who will virtually travel with us during these final weeks, we hope you enjoy.

Peace and possibilities,
Marita

Checking in

Hard for me to believe it has been over two weeks since I posted to the blog, and over 6 weeks since we arrived but as I have said repeatedly, the time flies by when I am here.  

The second round of student posts have included not only thoughts on some of their internship experiences at Olive Leaf, Thandokhulu High School, and Sonke Gender Justice Network. but also their reflections on such things as: the opening of Parliament; the budget speech by the Minister of Finance; a court protest; the Xhosa rite of passage for young men; and a theatre performance at Artscape. They also provided some insights into: the challenges encountered with the language; the valuable cultural experience of going out to clubs (thanks Jordan); the sense of accomplishment when bungee jumping; and the joys of volunteering at an animal shelter. In addition, Rachel added her growing understanding of the concept of UBUNTU, which was discussed in our class by lawyer Jeremicia Seherie, while Dan described his experience of attending the ANC Rally in Khayelitsha.  

Reading through the first 30 student reflections provides evidence of both the transformative nature of this particular study abroad program as well as the remarkable students who have chosen to participate. I also think it is obvious from the collective reading of their posts that I am not exaggerating (though I have been told that I am prone to do such) when I rave about the all things Capetonian: the people, the scenery, the political engagement, the weather, the food, the wine, and the commitment to living Ubuntu.

With elections here less than two months away, this is no doubt an even more exciting time than usual to be in South Africa. Regardless of one’s politics, getting caught up in the current political conversations and activities seems irresistible—at least for me! With that said, I found the ANC rally in Khayelitsha yesterday truly amazing --– which I realize will not surprise anyone who knows the way I tend to be drawn to, and energized by, political rallies . . . and protests.  

However, for many students yesterday was the first time they have ever attended such an event, either here or in the U.S.---so it was quite an introduction. Not only did we all get ANC tee shirts (that read “working together we can do more” on the back, with a smiling picture of Jacob Zuma and "VOTE ANC" on the front) but we all had the opportunity to experience a huge South African rally!

Thanks to some of the fantastic connections I made while here last year, we were able to ride one of the ANC buses to the rally (learning a few ANC songs along the way) and then, upon arrival at the Stadium, were ushered to nearly front row ‘seats’.

Speaking of songs, although most were not in English--- the students, if not I, did a great job of singing along. The one English song sung repeatedly on the bus (perhaps because it was in English) was to the tune of “Joy to the World” (the one recorded by Three Dog Night). However the refrain to the ANC version was:
“Joy to the world, Joy to the world
Joy to the fishes in the deep blue sea
Join the ANC.”

This is but a cursory overview of the rally as i trust others will provide details of their experiences and hopefully share some of the hundreds of pictures and videos they took while at the rally ( I will be happy to post any they care to share). In the meantime, I have posted the pictures I took (some with brief captions) which may provide an inkling of what we experienced. Pictures are available at http://picasaweb.google.com/marita.mccomiskey/ANCRallyInKhayelitsha

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One other quick note: Two women, Greta Kenney and Lee Anne Thompson, former students of mine, have been in Cape Town for the past month. When not traveling the world, both work in the field of social service -- one in Connecticut, the other in Massachusetts. While here, in addition to seeing some of the amazing sites, they have had an opportunity to volunteer at a Domestic Violence Shelter, visit a township, and fall in love with both the people and the place. Greta, a perceptive thinking and engaging writer, has created a blog entitled “One Month in Cape Town” http://gekenney.blogspot.com/
Reading her blog will provide further insight into some of the things many of us have been seeing and doing while here. ENJOY!

Taking time to reflect

Every once in a while I have a truly brilliant idea---deciding to have students write entries for the blog was definitely one of those times!

Today completes the first round of blog posts from all 15 students. For those who have been following their entries, I trust you have been as impressed as I with the insight, style, energy and excitement of each post. I have laughed and cried reading their posts and have once again felt honored to have the opportunity to share this experience with such a great group.

Each student has managed to capture a small but astonishing part of their Cape Town experience thus far. I imagine each person who has read all 15 posts will find a different phrase or description that speaks to her or his heart and/or head. As for me, I loved reading every student entry and each has provided me with at least one profound insight:
• Hannah’s description of ‘South African time’ captured the essence of what I have come to know and love about a way of being here
• Dan’s excitement over planning & participating in his first ever protest was certainly appealing to someone who has long found inspiration in such meaningful events
• Stephanie’s explanation of being excited, scared and nervous was reflective in a way that helped me know her better as she was so obviously getting to know herself
• Rachel’s captivating smile is mirrored in her amazing excitement and sheer delight at having been so welcomed at Christel House School
• Cassidy’s honesty about her homesickness ‘hitting her from nowhere’ will no doubt resonate with many who have been in similar situations
• Jordan's description of the pre-ride fears as contrasted with the actual joys of minibus taxis transport surely captured the feelings of many foreigners who have decided this is a great way to travel
• Emily G’s candor in describing her growing awareness regarding the complexities of HIV in ZA, as well as the challenges of NGOs in securing funding, was thoughtful and informative
• Jill’s great overview of the work done at Christel House and her growing realization of the optimism of the people, demonstrated how much can is learned within just the first few days at such a placement
• Faina’s description of Tshepang, the play I mentioned in an earlier blog, presented a far more detailed and nuanced description than I had offered.
• Steph O’s description of how her hope and optimism had been ignited along with her belief that “everyday people like you and me change the course of history” speaks to the heart of what being in Cape Town offers for many of us
• Kevin’s description of his internship as a time when he is away from other U.S. students and is ‘completely immersed in a South African working environment’ highlights one of the unique aspects of this particular study abroad program
• Julie’s description of her first days at Thandokhulu supplied a glimpse into how her initial fears turned to hope for the future as she recognized the many opportunities for “unlocking the virtually unlimited potential” of the students with whom she will interact
• Emily A’s account of the opening assembly at Thandokhulu made me sorry I had not been there to share in the students' feelings of pride and accomplishment, but extremely happy that she had been there to share it with us
• Michelle’s moving description of her overwhelming feelings of happiness and gratitude, coupled with her ever-growing comprehension of UBUNTU, reverberates with me in a special way
• Chelsea, the extraordinary photograph/journalist of the group, records sights and details that I certainly would miss, even as I continue to strive to be in the moment (for anyone who has not read Chelsea’s incredible personal blog, I highly recommend you do so at http://capetown2009.blogspot.com/


So here we are, just completing our fourth week in Cape Town and as you can read, the lessons learned to date have far exceeded expectations—and dare I say, the best is likely still to come--so stay tuned . . .

The blog posting assignment as listed on their syllabus is:

• “At least six times during the semester you will be responsible for submitting a short entry that will be posted on the Cape Town Study Abroad Blog. These entries are to include insightful comments that serve to make connections between your experiences in Cape Town (both at your internship and beyond), your course work (readings, classroom discussions, videos, guest speakers, etc), and current events. 
• Although not every entry will include all of these elements, the six entries taken together will demonstrate a broad range of integration of theory and practice, insight and awareness, in addition to challenges and achievements. Entries may include pictures, links to related online material, or other creative material you deem acceptable.
• Blog entries are to be submitted in essay format and written for an audience that has not been to South Africa or taken a course on race and gender. During our first class you will sign up for 6 days on which you will be responsible for writing a blog entry. “
  

That means we can all look forward to another 75 posts from these bright, engaged, intellectually curious, articulate students as they continue on their journey to become better informed and more well-connected global citizens.

As someone who has coordinated an internship program at UConn for over 15 years I am well aware of how beneficial internships are in enabling students to integrate their academic learning with personal &  professional experience. However, having such an experience in Cape Town adds a dimension that, as with everything else here, is beyond anything we can imagine, and,  I am sure, will continue to unfold for years to come.

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On a more personal note, I must admit my sister was correct when she insisted that if I had students take over writing the blog she would no longer get daily updates from me. Although I tried to assure her otherwise, insisting I would start a personal blog just for family and friends, as usual, my perceptive sister had me pegged.

And now, not having provided a personal blog entry in two weeks, there is no way I could begin to capture, even in abbreviated form, what I have seen, done and experienced. so what follows will be but a brief, incomplete at best, overview!

 All but family and friends may choose to skip the next section as it is my humble attempt to provide an alternative to the personal blog i promised, which seems unlikely to ever get set up.

As students have so often written, everything here---the scenery, the people, the experiences--everything, defies description, even by the most talented among us. And, truth be told---- although I do take random notes in a little notebook ---and write long rambling journal entries on a non-regular basis—I have yet to put all of these into a cohesive, comprehensible form. 

It continues to amaze me that, although the days in Cape Town are marvelously long, the time just keeps flying by!  And since it is said that ‘time does fly when one is having fun’--- it must mean I am having fun! 

Since there is no way I can provide a chronology of the day-by-day events, what follows are just a few random thoughts on things I have done and enjoyed with perhaps a few additional revelations, that continue to astound me.

The one constant:
On Thursday mornings and afternoons, I have and will continue to attend both the Politics of South Africa class taught by Vincent Williams, and the Research Seminar taught by Vernon Rose. Although I sat in on both classes last year, I never tire of listening to, or fail to learn from, these two incredible people whom I have come to greatly value as wonderful colleagues.

My class:

Generally, on Thursday evenings my 15 co-educators and I meet at my flat, over dinner, for the final class of what is admittedly a very long day. (Hopefully the students find both the format and the content as enjoyable as I do). Last week we had a change of pace when we met for class at the Book Lounge in town to hear author Ida Susser speak about her new book AIDS, Sex, and Culture: Global Politics and Survival in Southern Africa, which is clearly relevant to many of the internships as well as to our class topics. 

For this week’s class we will be joined by Molly Blank, film maker extraordinaire, and three of the students who appear in her film Testing Hope . The three students, Noluyanda, Babalwa, and Mongamo, will talk to us about schools in the townships as well as their personal journeys, while Molly will provide insight into what she learned in the making of the film. (if interested, the film is available for purchase on the http://testinghope.com website).

So what have i been doing?

I generally seem unable to answer that question adequately.  Although i am always peacefully busy, certainly never bored, when I attempt to put into writing what it is that I am actually doing, it never seems to be quite enough ---and yet, it totally takes all of my time.

For starters, many of the things the students have written about in their blog entries I have also participated in, such as the incredible braai at the Rose home last Saturday, and the opening of Parliament on Friday.

In addition,  Ben & I have begun taking one student a week out for dinner with just the two of us. A chance for us to visit with each student 'far from the deafening crowd' and for each student to have one meal they don't have to buy or prepare. So far we have very much enjoyed having some relatively quiet time with Jordan, Rachel, and Chelsea, and this week we will be joined by Emily A.

A few of the recent things I have done that did not include students:

• took return trips to Robben Island, District 6 Museum, and the Slave Lodge, all of which continue to inspire me and at which I never fail to learn more of the profound history
  
• had dinner at Addis, the Ethiopian restaurant where the students ate during orientation on an evening I was unable to join them
  
• spent a beautiful day in Stellenbosch which included breakfast at a wonderful berry orchard and visits at two wineries.
  
• attended another play at Baxter Theatre—Where the Boys Are, a musical comedy (the music was great but since most of the spoken word was in Afrikaans, I unfortunately missed the majority of the humor—which according to audience reaction was quite hysterical)
  
• reconnected with a few people I had gotten to know last year, including lunch with a young woman lawyer who currently works for the Office of the Chief State Law Advisor, and who, in the coming weeks, will speak in our class about women’s rights and the spirit of Ubuntu
  
• enjoyed a wonderful evening at a jazz club where folks from the area jam on Monday evenings—not sure which is better, the music or the sheer love of music that seems to radiate from the musicians as they play
  
• hosted a few dinner parties--well, not quite sure they would qualify as dinner parties since I have neither a dining room nor a very large array of cooking or serving utensils—but at least fun get-togethers where the conversations were great and the evenings among my most enjoyable
  

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And a few additional random thoughts:

Having lived in either New York or Connecticut my entire life, I never truly understood when people talked about how cold/reserved/etc. New Englanders were---I always thought people were just fine wherever I went--- BUT being in Cape Town ---where everyone is sincerely friendly, talkative, affectionate, eager to help, and adept at marvelous story telling— it truly is different from any place I have ever been!

As I mentioned in a previous entry, the response to ‘thank you’ is not ‘you’re welcome’ but “pleasure!” “Pleasure!” said in such a way that I truly believe it has been. And in my experience this is true of everyone-- taxi drivers, clerks in the post office, servers in restaurants, tour guides in museums, people selling crafts----whether they are getting paid to be of service or just being kind, as in the people you stop on the street to ask directions—it all adds to an atmosphere that is quite amazing and truly pleasurable!

Every single day, no matter what else is on the agenda, I have no doubt that I will be privileged to have at least several fascinating, educationally stimulating conversations. If I ask a question (and it seems I am always asking questions)—such as where someone is from, what they think of COPE (the newest of the many political parties), why they are doing what they are doing, or just about any conversation starter --- I will get an answer —and most often the answer will include a detailed, personal story resulting in a conversation that leaves me feeling better informed and more inspired.

Although in the states I consider myself to be a fairly friendly person, perhaps I am a bit more outgoing in Cape Town and that is what promotes more frequent and interesting interactions----Perhaps---- but if that is the case, then there must be something about being here that just seems to bring out the best in me! Whatever the reason, I continue to meet wonderfully friendly, talkative, warm, affectionate people who amaze me at their ability to keep hope alive ----and who never fail to help me to do the same!

By the way, have I mentioned lately how very much I love it here?!?!?

More Revelations

A truly great group of students.

When I knew I would be returning to Cape Town this year, I was thrilled and certain beyond a doubt it would be yet another incredible experience for me, as well as for a new group of student. However, I had one nagging concern—how could any group of students possibly be as wonderful or get as much out of the experience as the amazing students who accompanied me on my first life-altering Honors in Cape Town Study Abroad experience??

However, having spent the past two days meeting one on one with each of the 15 students, I now know any reservations I had were totally unfounded. This group is certainly different in many ways ---as evidenced by the fact that although their first two weeks of orientation provided much the same schedule as was given in '08 (with a few notable excepts), this initial introduction has given these '09 students some extremely different experiences and insights! With that realization, and the unbridled enthusiasm of all, any slight apprehension on my part has evaporated as surely as the morning mist ---and why should I be surprised? this is a totally special and unique group—---and . . . THIS IS CAPE TOWN!

As I met with students yesterday and today I shared with them what I had written after our initial class on Thursday evening: “Listening to all 15 students describe thoughts and feelings about their first 11 days here has convinced me that if all were to leave Cape Town tomorrow, each would have gotten more than their money's worth from this experience!” Each and every student, without reservation, agreed whole-heartedly with that assessment. It is quite astonishing to consider just how much each has gained personally and academically ---even before beginning their internships --–which is the primary reason why most were attracted to this particular program in the first place.

As I mentioned before, and students concur, despite the eloquence of language or artistic ability of the photographer, there is absolutely no way to explain the Cape Town experience to one who has not been here. As hard as we try to articulate the experience, words are simply inadequate to describe the magnitude of the transformation that occurs. Time flies by as if in a blink of an eye, and yet . . . it seems as if we have been here for ever! We recognize that we are in a strange country, half way around the world from family and friends, and yet . . . we are feeing almost at home. Despite our being so obviously American, and standing out wherever we go, almost everyone we meet seems to be happy to go out of their way to be helpful. And when we thank a stranger for providing assistance of any type, the most typical response is . . . "pleasure!" . . . said in such a way that it is easy to believe they sincerely mean that it has been a pleasure for them to be of help.

It's not just what happens with others, but also countless opportunities to learn from one another beyond anything that could have been anticipated. For example, living in a house with 15 people could be an educational experience under any circumstances, but in Cape Town such seemingly mundane lessons are becoming truly life-altering. Students have realized that it is very unlikely they would have ever been friends with the housemates they have here if they were still in Storrs--- not only because of the size of the campus and their different social networks, but also because of the judgments they might have made about people so very different from themselves! What a valuable way to uncover theories regarding unacknowledged stereotypes! How very informative to see for one's self how easily preconceived judgments of others so often prevent us from getting to know some of the nicest and most interesting people!

Yet, while we seem to be learning some new and important bits of information ALL the time, there still are ample opportunities to have some great fun in the process. In addition to students taking time from their busy schedules for their one on one conversations with me (which included lunch for those wise enough to sign up to meet at my flat during the lunch-hour time slots) all were able to have some well-deserved free time to take pleasure in the gorgeous weather and spectacular countryside.

Friday was spent enjoying two of the many Cape Town Beaches , as some headed to Muizenberg on the train, and others to Clifton Beach 4 on a minibus taxi. While several learned yet again the painful lesson of just how easily one can get too much sun in the southern hemisphere, all seemed to savor a free day of relaxation and summertime fun.

Saturday provided some time to settle in while beginning to plan how and when to tackle those every day tasks that can pile up when not addressed on a regular basis, such as: laundry, shopping, reading, writing, and homework, to name a few. Most seemed content to take the time necessary to complete (or at least begin to work on) these tasks with the promise of more fun to come as they made plans to attend a play or go to a club in the evening.

While some of the group opted for an evening out in Obs, nine students and I headed to the Baxter Theatre to see The Tempest. However, due to some misinformation and miscommunication, we arrived at the theatre only to discover that the play was sold out!!!

Quite a disappointment for all but while some in the group decided to leave the theatre and make other plans for the evening, Michelle, Faina and I decided that, since we had already walked down to the theatre, and there was another play being performed at the much smaller studio theatre, we would just stay to attend that show. And we are all so very thankful that we did!!!

In the Baxter Theatre Sanlam Studio, we were privileged to be present at one of most profoundly moving theatrical performances any of us had ever seen: Tshepang, directed by Lara Foot Newton,
 scenography by Gerhard Marx,
 starring Mncedisi Shabangu and Constance Didi. As if seeing the show wasn’t worthwhile enough, following the performance, we had an opportunity to meet and speak with both of the remarkable actors from this incredible two-person show!

I think the three of us agree that whether or not we are able to attend The Tempest before it closes on 6 Feb, we will remain eternally thankful that tonight’s performance was sold out, and that we made the choice to attend Tshepang!

Following the show we stopped at the Hussard Grill for a bite to eat before calling a metered taxi to drive us home. Upon the expert advise of a very handsome server, we called Elite Taxi, and had to agree, it was a ‘prompt, reliable, and inexpensive’ mode of transport --–with a great driver, Romeo, who obviously had made many trips to Loch Rd with previous student groups.

Tomorrow we leave for Kirstenbosch at 10:00 a.m. for a day of climbing Table Mountain (at least for the many athletic members of the group), viewing the amazing flowers in the Botanical Gardens, taking pictures, picnicking, and attending the 5:30 concert with Prime Circle, billed as “South Africa’s most successful rock group."

Postscript: When we arrived at Kirstenbosch we discovered the concert for the evening was sold out (next time we will check before planning to attend a Sunday evening concert).  Twelve students decided to hike Table Mountain. After some fabulous picture taking, decided rather than return to Kirstenbosch they would take the cable car down the mountain and were picked up there by the transport we had arranged for the day.  Three students relaxed and enjoyed the day at the gardens. I returned to my flat to get some work done.

Pictures available

I have finally made a little time and found a bit of available bandwidth, to begin uploading some of the pictures.

Pictures of Moyo at Stellenbosch are now available at http://picasaweb.google.com/marita.mccomiskey/Moyo#

More blogs and pictures

Chelsea has created her own blog, which is truly remarkable, and given me permission to provide a link. I highly recommend you check it out.

Beginning Sunday, 25 Jan. students will be submitting short essays that will be posted to this blog. With 91 days remaining, each student will provide 6 entries (about one every other week). I am sure anyone following the blog will find their insights, analysis, reflections and pictures to be extremely worthwhile and illuminating.

I will from time to time also provide postings, but this will primarily become a compilation of student experiences. I will also provide links to those blogs created by other students.

Stay tuned . . .

Change of pace

21-22 Jan: Total change of pace for me.

Wednesday was the first day since we arrived that I had a ‘free’ day--- while the students did some exploring, shopping, and relaxing on their own. As wonderful as the past 10 days have been, it was marvelous for me to have a bit of time to catch my breath.

While the students were learning the enjoyment (and challenges) of minibus taxi transportation into town, finding their way to the Jammie Shuttle (which provides free transport to campus for those not wanting to climb the mountain), and/or relaxing around the pool, I settled back into ‘my flat’ which truly does feel like coming home.

In addition to having a bit of time to myself, today gave me a chance to reconnect with some folks I met while here last year. Lunch with Ronnie Ngalo gave me a chance to hear more about the wonderful work he is doing in Nyanga. For his full time job, Ronnie works at MoloSongololo, a children’s rights NGO where, Joelle (Honors in Cape Town '08), did her internship last year. I was fortunate to get to know Ronnie when I accompanied him and Joelle on some of their township school visits while they were recruiting learners for a program directed at young men and boys. (pictures of Ronnie working in those schools can be found at http://picasaweb.google.com/marita.mccomiskey/TownshipSchoolsWithMoloSongololo#).

Knowing Ronnie had been extremely sick, having spent several of the past 7 months in the hospital, it was wonderful to see him back on his feet and looking so happy and healthy! His enthusiasm about the work he is doing is truly inspirational. An extremely faith-filled person, Ronnie is convinced that his life has been spared because there is still much for him to share with the world--and he surely does have a commitment to do that.

In the afternoon I was able to enjoy tea-time with Lumka Qinela, a woman so full of life that her cheerfulness is truly contagious. Lumka, who will turn 35 on 3 Feb, was explaining to me that as she turns 35 this year she will now have to be a “real” grown-up. Since I have children both older and younger then Lumka, she contends should be my middle child---and my only “daughter! With that realization she instructed me to tell my four sons "they now have a sister in South Africa!" Lumka always finds a way to make me laugh--- listening to stories about her kids and sharing such easy conversation over a cup of tea and her favorite chocolate cookies, reminded me again of how great it is to be back. ( Lumka and her children, Nontombi and Chris, live in Khayelitsha)

Having done some catching up with great people, I spent much of the remainder of day shopping and cooking for students---since we decided my class will be held each Thursday from 4:30-7:30, at my flat---and I will provide dinner. Perhaps I planned an overly ambitious menu considering I am still attempting to stock the flat with staples, as well as relearning the challenges of shopping without a car—--great exercise but a bit time consuming when one considers the fact that I am among the world’s worst shoppers—thus requiring me to return to the store -- several times! Love to cook –hate to shop!

Thursday, 22 Jan, first day of classes!
As I did last year, in addition to teaching one class on Race and Gender in a Globl Perspective, I plan to attend both the other classes the students will be taking.

Vincent William's, whose primary job is as an executive staff member of IDASA, “an independent public interest organisation committed to promoting sustainable democracy based on active citizenship, democratic institutions, and social justice,” will teach a course on the history and politics of South Africa. In his first class he was able to remarkably present a 300 year history in just over two hours—a great foundation upon which he will build throughout the remainder of the semester.

Vernon Rose, UConn's incredible Cape Town coordinator for the program, assigned students a journal writing exercise which provided a great opportunity to reflect upon some of the amazing experiences they have had in the "Mother City." In addition, his "exploration of the city assignment" challenged each group of students to locate the means of transportation necessary to get to a specific place. Completing that assignment enabled everyone to begin to feel comfortable with finding their way around. and with Vernon’s expert ability to find the perfect placement for each student, everyone is eagerly looking forward to beginning their internships on Monday morning!)

For their final class of the day, students arrived at my flat where we began with a discussion of assignments and projects they would do to encourage the integration of theory and practice throughout their adventures in Cape Town. Having participated in the pre-departure class during fall semester, we had begun to lay the groundwork which enabled us to work as co-educators on a consensus decision-making exercise to establish specific project assignments and evaluation criteria for the class. Next, each student described one or two things they have learned about South Africa and themselves since they arrived.

Listening to all 15 students describe thoughts and feelings about their first 11 days here convinced me that if they were to leave Cape Town tomorrow, each would have gotten more than their money's worth out of the experience! Student after student confirmed that nothing they could have heard or read about Cape Town would have prepared them for the actuality. The breathtaking beauty, the incredible poverty, the friendliness of everyone they have met, the heartbreaking legacy of apartheid, the inspirational accomplishments of so many, the astonishing work being done at the numerous NGOs we visited ---have all left a permanent imprint on their hearts and minds. Some found it amazing that people in a humble, non-air conditioned church in Guguletu radiate more hope and joy than they had ever seen in extremely well-resourced churches at home. Others recognized that despite all the time many of us spend talking about things, we too often spend little time listening, communicating, connecting with others on a truly personal level. While becoming unplugged (from email, face-book, texting) allowed at least one person to face just how much time can be used on such activities without even noticing. Realizing that there is not simply a different pace in Cape Town but also a very different approach to life, relationships, conversations, and possessions, has been an eye-opening experience. Student after student spoke of feeling content, at peace, at home.

Following our truly amazing conversation, we combined eating dinner with watching Part I of the PBS series Race: the Power of an Illusion: the Difference Between Us. This film shows that despite what most of us have been taught to believe, "the world's peoples simply don't come bundled into distinct biological groups. The story follows a dozen students, including Black athletes and Asian string players, who sequence and compare their own DNA to see who is more genetically similar. The results surprise the students and the viewer, when they discover their closest genetic matches are as likely to be with people from other "races" as their own." Thinking and talking about the social construction of race and the multiple ways “science” has been used (misused) to justify some of the most horrific human rights abuses, was quite a bit to digest.

The remainder of the class entailed creating class groups for a semester long project, discussing potential activist projects, and making a class decision on how to best put together a symposium for the UConn community when we return to campus. While some left discussing plans for an evening out on the town and others headed off for a run around the commons before sunset, I was left to reflect upon how amazingly well everyone seems to be approaching their time here. Heeding the advice of students from last year, everyone appears committed to not wasting any of their precious time. Whether they are working on social justice issues, seeing the amazing sights, or simply having a fun time, all seem determined to make the very most of every moment –each in their own unique way.

Visiting Placement Sites

This week began with an opportunity to visit each of the placement sites where students will be interning throughout the semester. This was a great overview of many of the schools and NGOs in the area as supervisors from each organization took the time to meet with all of us, tell us about the work they are doing, and answer our questions.

Monday morning we headed into town for our first stop at the The Sonke Gender Justice Network where Hannah and Steph O will be interning. This is an incredible organization that works with men, women, youth and children to: achieve gender equality, prevent gender based violence, and reduce the spread of HIV and the impact of AIDS. There flagship project is One Man Can. which supports men and boys to take action to end domestic and sexual violence and to promote healthy, equitable relationships that men and women can enjoy - passionately, respectfully and fully. Both the director Dean Peacock and the research manager Wessel van den Berg took time to explain their programs to us. Approaching those with whom they work as people of ‘potential’ as opposed to people ‘at risk’ certainly provides a positive framework from which to go into the community. Both SSteph O. and Hannah seem to be extremely pleased with their assignment.

Next stop Black Sash which is where Cassidy and Chelsea will be working each Monday through Wednesday. Founded by middle class "white" women as an anti-apartheid organisation, Black Sash has continue to address the ever changing needs of South Africa as the country moves toward the ideals stated in its 'new' constitution. Believing in making Human Rights real, Black Sash works to empower marginalized communities and individuals to speak for themselves in order to effect change in their social and economic circumstances. They work to achieve these goals through Rights Education, Advocacy, and Advice Giving. Jane Coombe, National Programme Director, having been certain to provide us all with a pleasant snack of juice and cookies, took the time to discuss the profound history, hard working present and hopeful future of this organisation, about which she is obviously passionate.

Emily A., Faina and Julie were all excited to meet with Mr. deVilliers, the acting principal of Thandohulu Senior High (and all were pronouncing the name of the school properly by the time we completed are visit). Although located just a short Minibus ride from the students house, the students in the school travel from townships from throughout the area. As with all schools in the area, there is a fee to attend the school (about 350 Rand) and students must pay for transport (the travel by train or minibus and some travel for over 50 kilometers). This is a school that whose focus is on maths and science, and I trust Emily’s enthusiasm for math will be a wonderful asset to her teaching. Julie and Faina will be working with the head of the English department. Students have been on holiday since early December and return to school for the start of a new school year on 21 January. The three interns were invited to attend the opening assembly which will kick off the first day. Assembly’s are held outside since there is no room in the school large enough to accommodate the entire student population.

A quick stop on Main Road for everyone to grab a take away lunch and we were on our way to Bellville to visit CapeNature , where manager Ben van Staden and supervisor Nollithando Saki told us about some of the work done on the reserves of the Western Cape and had an opportunity to meet with Kevin and Jordan who will be interning with them. Advising them both to be certain to wear hiking boots whenever they will be traveling to the reserves, Jordan and Kevin will no doubt get to see more of the Western Cape than any of the rest.
As we headed by to the house, following an very long and informative day, everyone agreed that they were glad to have had the chance to visit the placement sites where their housemates will be interning. Students will officially begin their work at each organization on Monday, 26 January. Learning the dress codes, hours of work, and means of transportation to one’s placements, as well as understanding a bit more about the organizations and meeting supervisors, are some of the important lessons of this week.

Tuesday morning started at 8:30 as we headed to Christel House School. Although three students interned there last year what has happened since the is absolutely unbelievable. The mission of Christel House South Africa, which is to help children break the cycle of poverty and become self-sufficient, contributing members of their society, has remained the same. However, as of May 2008 they have been preparing to move to a new school that is to be completed by 2 February. We began our visit at the site of the new school where we were met by the engineer who has designed this campus and has a vision that excited everyone one of us. While Jill will be working with Sharon Williams, Development Director, and Rachel will be working in a classroom setting, many of us will no doubt want to stay informed on the innovative direction in which this school is headed. We returned to the old school to meet with the principal and social worker of the school who provided the strength of the history and hope for the future. To get a small idea of some of the work done at this school since it first opened in 2001, check out the YouTube video at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ypo2ZJeVuzg.

From Christel House we traveled to he Saartjie Baartman Centre for Women and Children (SBCWC ) which is a ‘one-stop centre for women and children who are survivors of abuse.’ Whose vision is the creation of a safe and secure society and a human rights culture where women and children are empowered to exercise their full rights. This is where Stephanie Y will intern. We all received an overview of the work done at SBCWC by Ilse Ardedse, the centre director. During our conversation with Ilse she asked Stephanie if she might be interested in teaching a class on basic computer skills for the residents of the shelter. An enthusiastic response from Stephanie seems to have set up her first project at her placement.

Lunch at the Ocean Basket, which some compared to Red Lobster in the states, seemed to be a big hit with the majority. While there Vernon, who truly does seem to know everyone in Cape Town, introduced me to his cousin, who works at the mall and is doing research with someone who may have graduated from UConn and the owner of this franchise, who wanted to know if their food was as good as food in the states!

Next placement stop, Treatment Action Campaign (TAC), located in Site B, Khayelitsha, where Dan will be interning. TAC was founded in 1998 as a campaign for treatment of people with HIV and to reduce new HIV infections. TAC efforts have resulted in many life-saving interventions, including the implementation of country-wide mother-to-child transmission prevention and antiretroviral treatment programmes. The TAC also runs a treatment literacy campaign which is a training programme on the science of HIV treatment and prevention. Mandla Majola, District Organiser, explained to us that of the 700,000+ people living in Khayelistsha it is estimated that over 70,000 are HIV positive but only about 10,000 are on ARVs. Mandla and those working in various programs described the work they are doing, how much has been accomplished and how very much is needed to insure that no one dies of AIDS.

Last placement stop was at the Olive Leaf Foundation, also located in Khayelitsha, was formerly associated with Hope World Wide but has moved in another direction during the past year. Now a South African registered development organisation whose purpose is to ‘enable sustainable community development’ recognising that the solution to the developmental problems disadvantaged communities face are to be found in the stakeholders themselves. To strengthen their new Identity as a developmental organisation. Was one of the reasons they have departed from the name HOPE worldwide. Under the leadership of Joan Daries, who will be the direct supervisor for Michelle and Emily G, Olive Leaf has a strong focus on volunteer and Internship opportunities for international students.

At each placement we visited throughout our two day whirlwind tour, someone brought up the subject of Barack Obama. The hopeful excitement about our new president could be heard wherever we went! As we ended our day of touring, plans were being made as to how and where folks would watch the inauguration and celebrate the new era of our country. Various groups of students headed into town to the library where the US Consulate had arranged to have a live stream throughout the ceremonies. I went with RA Ben to watch the inauguration with Esme and Lindiwe Rose at their home.

Those who know me will not be surprised to hear that tears of joy flowed freely throughout the inauguration speech. Having spent many, many years working to keep hope alive, tonight I felt an expansive hopefulness for our world that I have not experienced in a very long time. Peace and endless possibilities to all.

Our first weekend in Cape Town: 17-18 January 2009

Nearly 48 hours without internet in my flat and I survived but did get a few days behind in posting. Beginning next week, students will have the opportunity to begin posting their responses to their time here.

In the meantime:

Saturday was a layback, fun day of visiting two very different wineries.

First the family owned and operated Altydgedacht Estate, one of the historic farms established in 1698 on the fertile slopes of the Tygerberg. Altydgedacht has been in the Parker family since 1852 and UCT student, Richard Parker, son of the owners, did an excellent job of first providing an overview of the history of the farm and then explaining the wine making process itself. Contrasting the ways in which wine making is done on this family farm with how it is done on the large commercial farms was an informative overview. He and his father provided each of us who cared to try a taste of their five most popular wines and clear explanation of criteria by which wine is judged. Following that they encouraged us to rate each wine based on the same scales used in official competition—as a group we apparently rated very closely to that at their recent competition –not bad considering none of us had any idea how to evaluate wine prior to their explanation.

Following the wine tasting students were allowed to board a special truck for a ride around their vineyards (adding to that experience-- the truck broke down and a large pickup truck was sent to fetch the students).


Then on to Moyo at Stellenbosch and Spiers Winery. “Under the starlight African sky, set in a garden in the Western Cape Wine lands, this unlike any other restaurant.” An African buffet of Afriwith food galore for everyone, entertainment, beautiful setting between the trees. After lunch some checked out the gift stores, wine shop, and craft market. A warm breezy day provided the perfect backdrop for our final touristy orientation day.

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Sunday morning we drove to the township of Guguletu, Xhosa word meaning “our pride.” There we were welcomed as we attended church services at the Sivuyile National Baptist Church. Sivuyile means “joy” and attending that two hour service certainly provided a glimpse of the unbridled joy that radiates from the folks singing, dancing and praising the Lord.

From there we drove to Vangate Mall for lunch and then back to Guguletu to begin a short tour of the townships. Dr. Guma (Tops) rode with us to provide a historical perspective on many of the places we visited, beginning at the Gugulethu Seven Memorial:l“Built to commemorate the death of seven young black activists from the Cape township Gugulethu on 3 March 1986, the Gugulethu Seven Memorial consists of seven solid and powerful granite statue-like constructions, sculpted by the South African artists Donovan Ward and Paul Hendricks.” Walking a short distance we arrived at the Amy Biel and heard the story of the foundation her parents established to carry on her work in South Africa, yet another profound story of reconciliation in a country where the evidence of hope and healing continue to inspire.

One of the high points of my visit to Guguletu was that I was able to reconnect with a young woman I had met last year. Noluyanda and I have been able to stay in touch through facebook and email but it was wonderful to have a chance to see her and her son Lonwabo again. She was able to join us for our ride to Khayelitsha , which is the largest township in the Cape Flats (estimate over 800,000 people though there is no way of knowing since there are large informal settlements that encompasses much of the area. This is one of areas where the legacy of apartheid, and the Group Areas Act, is sorrowfully evident in the Cape Town area.

There will be time throughout our time here to get to know many of the amazing people who live and work in Khayelitsha, but for today, we heard stories from Dr. Guma and climbed to the top of Lookout Hill for a view of the vast area of this township where Table Mountain provides an amazing backdrop. The contrast between the breathtaking beauty and painful reality for so many is something that never gets easier for me to comprehend. Perhaps for students, seeing this for the firsttime, will begin a process of grappling with the enormity of the challenges here. Fortunately for all of us, having spent a few hours with the folks in Guguletu, we can build on the joy, hope, and commitment to building a better world.
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Day #5, incredible as that may be

Friday, 16 January

Table Mountain as seen from Robben Island.

For me, and i think perhaps for the students as well, it takes a very short time in Cape Town to begin to get a sense of comfort not often found in most new places. While everything is still fresh and exciting, it also somehow seems" just right" that we are here, at this time, at this place. I do not think there is anywhere in the world any of us would rather be on 16 January 2009!

Today we left the house at 7:45 and headed to the Waterfront to catch the ferry to Robben Island. This is my third trip to the Island but i was every bit as moved as I was the first time I visited. I cannot explain what is like to be in such a place of "past oppression and future hope”. A few pictures from today are posted at http://picasaweb.google.com/marita.mccomiskey/. I will post more pictures later (FYI, for some reason the date on all the pictures is apparently off by one day).

We returned from the Island in time for lunch at the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. Another stop for almost every tourist who passes through Cape Town, it is also a place frequented by many locals----as evidenced by the numbers of people greeting each other and stopping to chat. With more restaurants than any of us are likely to be able to visit during our 3 ½ months here. The students were all free to select the restaurant which best fit their mood and food preference of the day.

I personally chose to have lunch at Rooti’s Cape Malay Restaurant, located right next to the famous Waterfront Clock Tower. Not only did we enjoy delicious food but were also treated to several “shows” from the roving entertainers who are always rotating around the waterfront.

Stopping by a grocery store in Rondebosch to pick up a few essentials, some students decided to walk home after shopping, while others were ready to head home for some well deserved rest—myself included. A full week indeed, and we still have more to see and do on Saturday and Sunday, before driving around to visit each student's placement site on Monday and Tuesday.

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A full day of sightseeing

Thursday, 15 January 2009




This will be a short entry on a full day of sightseeing, picture taking, singing, laughing, eating and bonding! A day in which some of us, despite our good intentions, got a bit too much sun! More pictures will be posted as time and energy permit.

First stop: Camps Bay: “where the land meets the sea.” Some of us had breakfast while breathing in the fresh sea air, others walked on the beach and simply took in the sites—looking out at the water and up at the Twelve Apostles mountain range.

Next a drive along the Atlantic Coast Beaches with spectacular views.


On to Hout Bay for swimming (by very few brave souls), sightseeing, picture taking, clowning around for crazy picture taking (see above!) and lunch at Mariner’s Wharf.


From there we traveled on to Cape Point which is one of the quintessential tourist destinations, and for good reason. It was at this point in our travels that we got to see a baboon up close ---and for some ---a bit too personal! We also learned an extremely valuable lesson: never, NEVER EVER, be carrying anything that looks or smells like food when standing around admiring a baboon!!! This will surely be a tale told for years to come! For now, be assured everyone walked away completely unharmed –with some incredible video shots!!!!

Hard act to follow but next came the eagerly awaited visit to see the penguins at Simon’s Town Boulders Beach Penguin Colony. Who can resist being taken in by these adorable little creatures?

A ride home included passing even more beaches, including the famous Muizenberg Beach which provided students a glimpse of places to go and things to do in the weeks and months ahead.

A quick stop at an ATM for some of us to withdraw money while the Rand to dollar exchange is still 10 to 1, and the students, for the first time since their arrival, were on their own to prepare dinner for themselves and continue the cooperative learning opportunities that are provided by living in a house with 14 other people!!!

Tomorrow we depart for Robben Island bright and early.

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A note to those who are viewing this blog for the first time, or who have not yet made the discovery that words appearing in red are links to details about that particular place or event! Hope you enjoy.

Peace and endless possibilities, Marita
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A truly educational day!

Wednesday, 14 January 2009

So much to tell, so little time

Today we began the day by heading back into town. Our first stop of the day: Slave Lodge. Although, Lucelle Campbell, the woman who did our tour of the Logde last year, was no longer conducting tours, I was able to have a wonderful conversation with her while the students watched the video and took self-directed tours of the museum. Lucy has agreed to speak in our class sometime in February. She has a remarkable story of how learning about her personal history regarding slavery in South Africa has transformed her.

Next we visited the District 6 Museum. Of all the educational experiences I have had in Cape Town, for me, the story of District 6 is probably one of the most profound. Joe Schaffers , an incredible story teller, who was born in District 6 in 1939 and was forced to relocate under apartheid’s “Group Areas Act” was our guide. Processing the enormity of the history of Apartheid is likely a lifelong process, so this morning’s introduction may be just an opportunity begin that journey.

Even lunch in Cape Town can be an adventure and stopping at Charly’s Bakery certainly was. Although famous for their spectacular cakes, Charly’s is also a popular lunchtime gathering place for Capetonian’s who work in the area (and certainly one of Vernon’s favorite orientation stops with students).



Following lunch we headed to Signal Hill. No matter how many pictures we take or superlatives we use, we cannot begin to capture the essence of that experience.

The Crew: Dan, Kevin, Michelle, Rachel, Jordan, Stephanie, Emily A, Hannah, Jordan, Faina, Julie, Cassidy, Jill Chelsea, Steph, Emily G

Having heard about the Cape Flats during our tour of the District 6 Museum, it was a wonderful surprise that Vernon, who had also been born and lived in District 6 before his family was “relocated" to Bridgetown, took us to the “Flats.” Not only did we get to see the high school Vernon attended and the fields on which he grew up playing soccer, but we were also privileged to visit Vernon’s mother (who was celebrating her 80th birthday) and his sister Priscilla. Being welcomed into their home, and hearing Mrs. Rose’s story, provided yet another glimpse into the remarkable stories that are part of the District 6 legacy.

On our way back to Loch Road for the students to prepare for dinner out on the town, a few students stopped with me at my favorite Rondebosch health food store, To Your Health.


Michelle, Faina, Jordan & Steph also had a chance to meet the woman from whom I bought my weekly supply of fresh flowers last year--- a tradition I will surely continue!



Dinner at Addis, an Ethiopian restaurant on Church & Long Streets finished up a very long day.

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OUR FIRST WEEK HAS BEGUN

Can it really be only Tuesday?

Saturday, 10 January 2009
We left JFK airport in a snow storm. After several deicings our plane took off about two hours late. Fortunately we apparently made up the time and had no problem catching our flight in Amsterdam (despite having to go back through security).

Sunday, 11 January 2009

Arrived at CPT airport at about 22:30—and ALL our luggage arrived with us -–always a good thing. We were met at the airport by Vernon Rose, the Cape Town program coordinator and his wife Esme; Ben Brown, our RA; and Parks, who will be our driver for the week. A wonderful welcome indeed.

We headed to 10 Loch Rd, Rondebosch, which will be home for all 15 students throughout the next three and a half months. Their enthusiasm at being here, their absolute delight in seeing the house for the first time, and their overall good nature made my “homecoming” even more spectacular!

Roommate selections had been made months ago and since each pair had chosen a number-- rooms were selected in order of the draw! (The house is so amazing I do not think there truly is a ‘bad’ room). Our extremely helpful RA, Ben, had a great array of snacks and breakfast food awaiting our arrival (I am certain the ’08 students can truly appreciate how much of an improvement that was over last year’s first evening when all arrived starving to a house with NO food at all!). Ben had also thoughtfully had the internet up and running, including Skype! It was great that we were all able to email or call home to let folks know of our safe arrival.

Several took advantage of the crystal clear pool (another a huge difference from Jan 08). Some tried out the pool table in the large common room. Ben, who has been involved in the Loch Rd house since he was a student here in 2005 says the entire place has never been better. The house now has a, including a security wall and gates onto the property. We will all continue to remember to take and use MANY keys.

Monday, 12 January 2009

If anyone was suffering from jet lag they certainly did not exhibit it. I spent my first night at Loch Rd and was surely the first one to sleep (somewhere around 2:30 am). When I awoke before 7:00, many of the students were already up –some dressed and ready to go. They are quite a remarkable group.

Our morning began with a group get together in which Ben distributed the week’s itinerary (which in true Capetonian fashion is subject to change as the need may arise). After an official welcome and brief orientation from Vernon we piled into the van for a trip to the University of Cape Town for a brief orientation, security briefing, tour of a small portion of the campus, which included a stop to get our ID cards, and a quick visit to the room in which students will attend two of their three classes ( CAS Building, Centre for African Studies )

Leaving campus we headed to Main Rd, Rondebosch where students were able to purchase items needed to settle into their new home, which included buying “minutes” for both their cell phones and for the internet. They were on their own to explore and find their own favorite lunchtime places. Which apparently was a huge success. When they were picked up to return to the house students had already learned many valuable Cape Town lessons –one regarding how long it takes to get an order ---–this is not a matter of poor service, rather just the way it is!

While students explored, I was able to get ALL my luggage moved to my flat –so great to be able to return to the same place, and Ben was able to pick up the rental car he will have for the duration of the program.

Once we had all taken a brief time to refresh and students transformed into their “smart casual” attire, we were picked up by the van for our dinner out at a Swinger’s for their famous Monday Night Jazz Club Jam, where some of Cape Town’s finest musicians have played over the years (and where Nicolas Williams now plays with the house band). Great music and wonderful food--where we discovered that South Africa Malay Curry is very different from Indian curry (not nearly as spicy).

Unfortunately, before the house band had finished, and the jamming began, wel were all ready to head home to get some very much needed sleep.

Tuesday, 13 January 2009
Picked up at 9:30 for students’ first trip to the “Mother City” for a brief introduction. First stop the Grand Parade and City Hall where Nelson Mandela stood to address the nation when he was released from prison (which brings me nearly to tears each time I stand before it)

From their we split into two groups, one going with Vernon for a walking tour of the city, the other going with Ben to the taxi rank for a quick lesson on local transportation options. The four students who will be interning in town had the opportunity to see the buildings in which they will be doing their internships (though official internship sites begin next Monday). Students had about an hour to split into small groups to explore the area around St George’s Cathedral while discovering some excellent places for lunch.

Meeting at 13:45 we headed out of town to the American Consulate where we received a briefing (upon which I will refrain from commenting).

Our drive home including many comments on how difficult it was to believe that we had not yet been in Cape Town 48 hours. Incredible indeed!

This evening students had their first house meeting with Ben while sharing pizza and salad. I headed back to my flat to continue settling in. I will add pictures to the blog and post pictures to Picasaweb.

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We're in Cape Town

Arrived safe and sound. I think it didn't take students too long to understand why i am in love with Cape Town!

First day orientation at University of Cape Town went well--- we now all have our UCT IDs.

Monday night went to dinner at a jazz club . Will post more once i catch my breath.





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